As the executive chef for seven years and counting at the fine-dining Indian eatery Junoon, check out what our Inspectors said here, Akshay Bhardwaj, 30, is well-versed in creating artfully presented upscale dishes. Born in Queens and raised in New Jersey, his new spot Jazba goes the opposite way by delving into India’s zero formality and beloved roadside food culture.
A joint venture with his father Rajesh Bhardwaj, who owns and runs both eateries, Bhardwaj says that Jazba, located in the East Village, gives him an outlet to explore the dishes that he relishes on his frequent trips to India.
He explains that roadside cuisine is prevalent all over the country and found at hawker stands along highways. The dishes that these hawkers prepare are hearty, usually spicy and just plain fun: eating standing up around the stand with your hands and juices dripping down your chin are reflective of a snapshot of the moment. “Each stand or hawker is known for and has a following for a particular dish, whether it’s a curry, sandwich, kebab or bread,” says Bhardwaj.
Below, he explains why he opened Jazba, how it’s a love letter to his background and the nuances of its signature dishes.
What was the impetus to introduce Jazba?
It was inspired by the roadside eateries and street hawkers of India who are integral to the country’s rich culinary identity. Some of these vendors have been around for over a century. Growing up in New York City for the last three decades, we have barely scratched the surface of this vast cuisine, so we believed it was the right time to showcase these recipes and transport diners to feel like they are in a dhaba (roadside eatery) enjoying a meal that has been made with meticulous affection.
Describe some of the signature dishes.
Our Aminabad Galouti kebab comes straight from Lucknow with a centuries-old recipe. One of the members of our kitchen team grew up in Lucknow and worked at the place where this dish originated. It’s goat that is minced multiple times and mixed with a twelve-spice blend, galouti masala, which is another ten-spice blend, cashew and papaya paste, goat kidney fat and roasted chana powder. The dish is served with a Warqi paratha, a layered bread seasoned with ghee and cardamom.
Our Laziz Pasliyan is a cut of goat ribs marinated with our special spice blend, then served with a roomali roti, Daal Makhani, mint chutney, raw onions and green chilies.
For vegetarian signatures, the Lotan Ke Chole is based on a shop run by the fifth generation of the family. The dish is spicy chickpeas topped with red chili oil topped with a roasted spice blend, fresh ginger, cilantro, red onions and some pickles. It’s served with a buttery-rich pan-fried kulcha.
Can you talk about the different regions of India that particular dishes hail from?
From New Delhi, we have Aslam Butter Chicken and Press Club Korma while from Bangalore, we serve Empire Fried Chicken.
From Karnataka, we are highlighting several ingredients for our Coorg Pandi Curry, a spicy pork dish. Coorg is the name of an area in Karnataka that’s known for its coffee plantations and spices. Our Pandi Curry showcases “Kachumpuli," a souring agent (aka Coorg vinegar) invented by the Coorgis from that region.
How does Jazba reflect your background as an Indian?
Being a New York-born Indian, I only heard stories of my parents and family enjoying the myriad of street foods throughout their young years. These stories would be filled with nostalgia. Over the last few years, I made multiple trips back to India and ate at many of those hawker spots that my parents and grandparents ate at.
How do drinks figure into the cuisine and stay true to tradition?
We use herbs and spices from specific regions that are highlighted on our menu and make cocktails with them. One example is the coffee, Kachumpuli vinegar and spice blends from Coorg that are used for a cocktail called Kaapi.
Do you have plans to open more concepts or change Junoon?
Junoon is slated for a major change in February, both menu and dining experience-wise. There is a new chef from New Delhi, Prasanjit Singh, who has joined the team and will be heading the kitchen while working closely with me. We are coming up with a new menu and will host guest chefs throughout the year to give our diners a different and unique dining experience.
