If you look up the word “noisette,” it has a dual meaning, referring to both a small round piece of meat and a chocolate made with hazelnuts. It’s the perfect moniker for Denver’s Noisette, as it happens to be equal parts French bakery and restaurant. However, for Lillian and Tim Lu, the husband-and-wife owners, there is a third meaning behind the name—it belonged to their now gone but beloved cat. It’s all three meanings—a little bit sweet, a little bit savory, and a whole lot of heartfelt—that perfectly sums up what this Denver hot spot is all about.
For Lillian and Tim, opening Noisette was the realization of a longtime dream. Both logged endless hours in New York kitchens, with Lillian working in pastry at Two MICHELIN Star Daniel, Two MICHELIN Star Aquavit, and Ai Fiori (where she met Tim), and Tim at the stove at Nobu 57 and One MICHELIN Star Le Coucou, among others.
The New York City restaurant life was wearing on them, though. “We really like to be outside and we didn’t get that opportunity working so much and living in New York,” explains Tim. The couple decided to move to Colorado—both for a lifestyle change and for the chance to open their own restaurant. Tim, who grew up in Houston, vacationed in Colorado with his family, and Lillian liked the idea of being closer to family. They took the plunge and moved to Denver in 2018.
They chose to spend a little time getting to know their adopted city before going out on their own. Tim helped open Beckon, but a year into Covid, the two decided to start looking for their own space. “We ended up getting the neighborhood we wanted,” he explains. “There are a lot of independent restaurants in this neighborhood cooking food on the level we wanted to cook. It’s residential and quiet—it’s a great place to be.”
The pair celebrated Noisette’s one year anniversary in early August. “We’ve had really great success. We have so many staff that have stuck with us since the beginning because they believe in what we’re doing.” What they are doing is cooking food that they want to cook. It’s French, but far from fussy. Imagine your grandmother, with a degree from culinary school and you get the gist. “Our food is French bourgeoise. It’s classic, French-style home cooking,” says Lillian, who handles the bakery side while Tim runs the kitchen.
So, how does a couple who works together stay together? “Separate hours,” laughs Tim. “I think having separate kitchens also helps,” jokes Lillian. All kidding aside, it’s their shared vision that strengthens their bond—at home and work. “We have the same mindset, and we know what our brand is and what we want it to be,” says Tim. “It’s simple flavors with fine dining technique.”
Hero image: Jeff Fierberg
