In case you need a refresh, the Bib Gourmand distinction is awarded to restaurants that offer multi-course meals at reasonable prices. And while all are unique and the “price” varies from country to country, the standard for quality remains the same.
That’s why every Friday, we’re highlighting our Bib of the Week: where to go, what to order, the best time to stop by, and everything in between. So whether it’s regional Chinese flavors in Denver or a slice of authentic Afghan cuisine in Washington, D.C., our selection of Bib Gourmand spots will leave both you and your wallet satisfied.
Who knew that such a small restaurant could pack such a punch? From stylish interiors to a creative menu focused on Latin American flavors, Mister Oso, one of nine Colorado Bib Gourmands serves up hit after hit. So whether it's family night or date night, this Denver hotspot is perfect for all.
But don’t take our word for it, check out what our Inspectors had to say here, and below, learn from the team on what you need to know before you go.
What is the dish to order at Mister Oso?
Right now, it’s the tomato and avocado salad because it's in season and it’s fire. But for something that will be on the menu for a while, it’s the lamb cheek taco. That recipe is from Russel Stippich's grandmother, who is from Mexico, and it’s been on the menu since day one.
The lamb cheeks are salted and marinated in barbacoa marinate overnight. The next day it's smoked at a low temp for two and a half hours and then braised in banana leaves until tender. From there, we let them rest overnight. The next day we remove the meat and reduce the braising liquid until it’s thick and flavorful. We then serve them with charred shishito, spicy pickled red onion, cilantro, warm flour tortillas, alongside an avocado salsa verde. I love that it’s a culmination of tradition and technique.
What price range can customers expect at Mister Oso?
For lunch, guests can expect to spend around $30 per person, which might include sharing some chips, queso, guacamole, a salad, and a taco platter. Dinner is slightly more expensive as it often involves the addition of cocktails or frozen margaritas, a seasonal ceviche, and churros or house made ice creams for dessert.
When is the best time to stop by?
If you want the full Mister Oso party vibe, come anytime Thursday through Sunday evening. It’s really lively all through the restaurant and out on the patio, especially when the weather is nice, which in Denver is 75% of the year. We’ll have our second patio bar open and it’s just a party.
If you want your vibe a little more chill, join us for lunch, any day or a Monday or Tuesday evening for Happy Hour or dinner.
What was the idea behind Mister Oso?
The happy hours at my first restaurant, Señor Bear, in LoHi (lower Highland), was the inspiration behind Mister Oso. We witnessed lively guest interactions with a happy hour menu that's filled with fun spins on Latin-inspired foods like cheesy gordita crunches paired with margaritas and frozen cocktails. Whereas Señor Bear has a broad, esoteric menu with several Latin influences, Mister Oso has more of a focus on tacos and ceviche. We wanted to do a new spin on this and we took time to consider how we could make it really stand out. That's when the idea of smoked meats struck us, leading to our smoked meat-style taco platters at Mister Oso.
How would you describe your approach to food and cooking?
Right now, we’re doing a spin on a BLT, which is beef belly and tomato. In the fall, we will be bringing a sweet potato taco to the menu. I’m lucky to have such a super-creative team and amazing chefs at both locations. There’s a lot of collaboration and passion that’s brought to the table from everyone.
I tend to get inspired by a dish, a cooking technique or an ingredient and I’ll totally immerse myself in it. I’ll research it, read articles, go all in. Sometimes these ideas take months or years to come to fruition, but it’s always in the back of my mind. A lot of the time, the inspiration comes from needing an additional item on the menu. Mister Oso is a meat and seafood-centric menu, so often it’s about being inspired to bring the season to that menu.
How did you conceive of a menu that is delicious, yet good value?
It’s a balance between creating dishes that hold memories for people and opening our guests up to cooking techniques or ingredients that might be associated with more high end restaurants. I love playing with “nostalgia food” like a crunch wrap, Frito pie and nachos. It’s an opportunity to give our people an entry point because we’re serving food they have memories of and they really love.
But when you dig deeper into Mister Oso’s menu, you’ll find carrot tacos, other seasonal vegetable tacos, lamb neck and beef belly. So we have lots of things that are familiar and approachable, but also lots of other dishes that get guests to discover something that might not be as familiar to them when they think of tacos.
How have you been able to maintain your standards with the cost of ingredients going up?
Great relationships with our purveyors and farmers supports our high level of standards. There’s a dialogue always happening, and that helps us pivot rather than pass a price increase on to the guest. We could use lamb loin for a taco, but then no one could afford that taco. Lamb cheek is just as delicious, has an amazing texture and incredible flavor, so it’s just about being tenacious to source those great cuts. Technique plays a huge part in keeping our standards high too. Our birria tacos tacos take a detailed four day process to make, from smoking to braising to the time it takes to rest.
Hero image: Kayla Jones/Mister Oso