Anyone travelling in southern Styria, on the winding roads around Kitzeck or by the vineyards near Gamlitz and Ehrenhausen, is greeted by scenes straight out of a travel book: verdant hills, row after row of vines, a view that stretches as far as Slovenia, often framed by a bright blue Styrian sky. People sit on café terraces with a glass of Sauvignon; Buschenschanken serving local specialities are conducive to lingering. Styria is a region in which landscape, cuisine and hospitality are tightly interwoven.
The Bib Gourmand, named after the Michelin Man – known as "Bibendum", or "Bib" for short – is an award that proves good food does not have to break the bank. Symbolised by Bib licking his lips, it represents the best value for money in the MICHELIN Guide. Restaurants that impress with their meticulous cuisine made using high-quality ingredients and where the bill is nonetheless moderate, are singled out for this distinction. This is a concept that suits Styria down to the ground: Between rural authenticity, artisanal cooking and contemporary standards, the restaurants that crop up in this part of Austria often focus on regionality and quality – understated, committed and with their own hallmark.
“It feels like there are more Bib Gourmands here than in any other comparatively small corner of the world. Anyone who has spent a holiday here comes away with a new favourite destination”
Says Stephan Reinhardt, a reviewer for Robert Parker Wine Advocate, about the region
Straden: Krispels Genusstheater
In the heart of Steirisches Vulkanland – Styria's southeastern volcanic area – the Krispel family has established this restaurant that combines architecture, wine and cuisine in a unique way. Rustic and modern elements meet refined table settings in the light-flooded space, and outside is one of the loveliest courtyard terraces in the region, complete with a stage on a block of basalt and a view into the kitchen. Daniel Weißer's cuisine is underpinned by meticulous craftsmanship and the best produce, as showcased, for example, in the consommé made with organic woolly pig pork with three types of garnish, or the dessert with rhubarb, goat's cheese, tarragon and white chocolate. The family also organises a series of events, "Vermessung der Sau", over the course of which a light is shone on the woolly pigs they rear, as well as on the craft of butchery, in an approach that is a good example of the value-oriented cuisine championed by many Bib Gourmands in Styria. As you would expect, the wine list is impressive – the signature of the affiliated winery runs through the entire range.
Fehring: Malerwinkl
Malerwinkl in Fehring is more than just a good restaurant – it is a synthesis of many art forms. The garden is dotted with sculptures by Peter Troißinger Sr, who once upon a time started out as a chef and who now, as a sculptor and painter, distinctly influences the atmosphere that prevails here. His son, Peter Troißinger Jr, is in charge in the kitchen, giving expression to his creative interpretation of Styrian Wirtshaus cuisine: ingredient-led, precise and demonstrating close ties to the region. The braised shoulder of lamb from Weiz with turnips, celery and a slice of spicy curd cheese sums up his signature style. Tables are laid out in the charmingly interconnected sections, in the light-flooded conservatory and on the terrace with a view of the sculpture garden. Overnight accommodation is available in the adjoining "art hotel", which has 10 individually designed rooms and a holiday apartment. Wine and items from the region can be enjoyed on site or purchased in the hotel's own vinothek to take home.
Fehring: Lilli Wirtshaus
In Fehring, where the gentle landscape of the Vulkanland is part and parcel of the culinary substance of the region, Lilli Wirtshaus shows just how contemporary an inn – or Wirtshaus – can feel today. Served for lunch and dinner, chef Walter Triebl's brand consists of finely composed ingredient-led cuisine in a down-to-earth, modern style. Think baked chicken liver with potato and lamb's lettuce salad and a cranberry dressing. In the evening, there is an additional fine dining set menu, featuring surprising dishes such as Amur carp with pumpkin, pumpkin seed oil and cabbage. Of course, many of the wine pairings also come from Styria!
"If your feet are firmly on the ground, you'll have more fun on culinary flights of fancy," says Lilli – a statement that aligns with the ethos of the establishment: high-level accessibility, supported by appreciation, integrity and a fresh, open approach to Styrian restaurant culture.
Graz: Mohrenwirt
Graz is not only the capital of the federal state of Styria, but also its culinary centre. Anyone who stops off at Mohrenwirt soon understands why. This traditional restaurant is in the old town between Kunsthaus Graz and the church, Mariahilfkirche, and has long been a favourite of its loyal following. Romana Maria Pieber and Lukas Lepsic represent a culinary approach that allies organic, regional and sustainable food with classic Wirtshaus character. The hosts are welcoming; the ambience is modern and rustic. The menu includes organic fried chicken in a basket with parsley potatoes and organic lamb sugo with aubergine, polenta, sheep's yoghurt and salted lemon.
"Come in, feel good & eat honest food" is their slogan, neatly summing up their philosophy. On Saturdays, the menu also features Kupferpfandl – organic beef served in a traditional copper pot. The short afternoon menu, served 2-5pm, rounds off the concept – down-to-earth, harmonious, rooted in the city.
Leibnitz: Schlosskeller Wirtshaus
Schlosskeller Wirtshaus is located on the Seggauberg, perched above Leibnitz in a landscape of vineyards and forests, with sweeping views over southern Styria. The wood-panelled interior, spacious terrace and bright dining room create an ambience that feels both intimate and open. Markus Rath cooks regional, seasonal Wirtshaus cuisine with classic Austrian foundations and modern accents. The menu includes Backhenderl (Viennese fried chicken) and Grammelknödel (potato dumpling stuffed with greaves), as well as a changing, multi-course sharing menu on selected days. In the same building is his Schlosskeller Gourmetstube, which has been awarded a MICHELIN Star.
Judith Kern, hostess and restaurant manager, guides you through the evening, and her wine recommendations are often directly rooted in the surrounding area. Close collaboration with producers and winegrowers in the region is as much a part of the concept as a deep connection to the place itself. A classic dessert is recommended to round off the evening: Marillenknödel – apricot dumplings.
Sankt Veit am Vogau: Gasthaus Thaller
The Thaller family's establishment, opposite the parish church, is steeped in tradition. Lunchtime is all about the Gasthaus, which serves as an unfussy complement to the fine dining restaurant they operate in the evening. Stationed at the wood-fired stove, Norbert Thaller himself cooks organic ingredients, many of which come from their own garden or the neighbouring fishpond.
The restaurant adheres to ethical culinary standards. "In 15 years, we have not used a single animal that has seen the inside of a slaughterhouse," says Norbert Thaller. The food is more rustic than in the restaurant, but just as consistently sustainable. Dishes such as pikeperch with snake gourd, Topaz apple and Meyer lemon, or potato gnocchi with chanterelles, Straden truffles and smoked cheese showcase the region on the plate. Their holistically sustainable philosophy has also earned the Thallers a MICHELIN Green Star.
Manuela Thaller provides cordial service. The spirit of Styria is palpable here – from the ingredients to the ethos to the overall atmosphere.
Langenwang: Wirtshaus Krainer
Wirtshaus culture as we know and love it is alive and well in this family business in the Hochsteiermark area: Andreas Krainer seasonal, regional cuisine with classic foundations is served in an extension flooded with natural light. Dishes such as "Krainer Goulash", Pöllau beef steaks or Mürztal fish hash are at once unpretentious and sophisticated. Guided by the principle of "forest and home", the cuisine is made with carefully selected ingredients from the surrounding area – from local fish to vegetables. The atmosphere is warm and inviting. For those who stop by in the afternoon, a buffet of cakes from the in-house patisserie awaits. A place that puts a contemporary spin on upholding Styrian Wirtshaus tradition.
Turnau: Wirtshaus Steirereck am Pogusch
At the Pogusch in the Hochsteiermark, gastronomic vision meets sustainability in practice. The Wirtshaus is part of a multi-award-winning concept inspired by its own farm: Sheep, goats, pigs, chickens, over 500 varieties of edible plant and fruit, plus their own spring water, form the basis for regional cuisine with character.
"Our own completely sustainable agriculture is the heart of the Pogusch," says Heinz Reitbauer, whose Steirereck im Stadtpark, in Vienna, holds three MICHELIN stars. The two restaurants work very closely together, and the Federal Ministry for Climate Protection has also recognised Steirereck as a pilot project for the circular economy – with its own energy supply, low-temperature heating circuit and spring water it produces itself. The Green MICHELIN Star also finds a model business for its selection here.
On Wednesdays, the spotlight is on garden, field and forest, on Thursdays – offal, on Fridays – freshwater fish, and on Saturdays they like to mix it up. The experience is rounded out by another eatery, Schankkuchl, where food is cooked over an open fire or steamed at the communal table.
The decor ranges from cosy to modern, the terrace offers a view of the countryside, and those who want to stay longer will find accommodation with individuality: from modern tree houses and converted stables to glass houses with a view of the natural surroundings.
Ligist: Wirtshaus Wörgötter
Right in the centre of Ligist, this traditional establishment has been run by the Wörgötter family for generations. Today, Florian Wörgötter, of the third generation, is working on developing the business further – with his father, Mathias, in the kitchen, and his mother, Renate, and his partner, Julia, front of house.
The Wirtshaus serves regional classics with a contemporary twist. Creamy veal lights with bread soufflé and caper leaf or Mariazell venison ragout with sour cream spaetzle, oyster mushrooms and red cabbage slaw demonstrate a combination of craftsmanship, origin and seasonality. The Austrian pancake made with curd cheese and sour cream and served with blackberries and vanilla ice cream is the perfect note on which to end – modest, delicious and with a regional bent. There is also a fine dining restaurant under the same roof: Wörgötter - Fine Dining has been awarded one MICHELIN Star.
The philosophy: an understanding of heritage hand in hand with an openness to new ideas – all underpinned by a sense of togetherness that extends to employees and suppliers alike. A place that has history and yet looks to the future every day.
Anyone travelling through Styria will encounter a culinary scene that is not put on for show, but firmly embedded in the landscape, in craftsmanship and in the principles of the restaurant owners. Expect dishes showcasing pumpkin seed oil, orchard fruit, game from the region or pork from home-reared woolly pig. The Bib Gourmands in this selection reflect the true character to be found in not exaggerating quality, but simply honouring it.
To help you plan your culinary journey to Styria, here are our hotel and Bib Gourmand recommendations.
Illustration Image: Landscape in Styria © Przemysław Iciak / iStock, Schlosskeller Wirtshaus © Jörg Lehman
