Hotel Lydia welcomed its first guests in 2016, but its story stretches back to the 1800s – and it’s this heritage that inspired both the hotel’s name and that of its restaurant. Lydia Grünmann Hõlm, the founders’ beloved grandmother, is not just referenced here in name though, as it’s her recipes that shape the cuisine, taken from a cookbook she wrote in 1925. That’s not to say that this restaurant is traditional; in fact, it’s quite the opposite. This a smart, modern spot both in looks and style, where the cooking takes on an ambitious, contemporary approach that comprises many different elements.