Travel 8 minutes 04 April 2025

Dom Hetrakul’s Bangkok is a City of Calm, Chaos and Ever-Changing Charm

From rock pubs to spa sessions, The White Lotus actor shares his insider’s guide to Bangkok, revealing the energy and allure of his ‘own backyard’.

The White Lotus has once again captivated audiences, this time with its third season set against the lush backdrop of Thailand. Among the cast is Dom Hetrakul, who plays Pornchai, the charming yet enigmatic spa manager.

Since stepping into the spotlight in 1994, Hetrakul quickly made a name for himself, not merely as a nepo baby in Thai high society but as a rising male lead in Thai soap operas. For over three decades, the 47-year-old has been cast as the quintessential hunk, a poster boy for Thai masculinity. But here, he reveals a different side: gentler, more tender and unexpectedly endearing.

Bangkok taught me to adapt,” Hetrakul shares. “Take Talat Noi — it used to be a place no one really talked about, and now it’s polished and buzzing. Bangkok’s traffic has always been infamous, but now we’ve got the subway, the Skytrain… things are constantly evolving here.”

Hetrakul, a father of one, is the eldest son of Pracha Hetrakul, the man behind one of Thailand’s largest local newspapers. But don’t let the polished accent fool you — he’s a true Bangkok local. Born and raised in the capital, Hetrakul knows the city like the back of his hand, often exploring it from the seat of a big bike, fuelled by his love for two wheels and open roads.

Dom Hetrakul, dressed in Jim Thompson, attended The White Lotus premiere in Bangkok. (© Max)
Dom Hetrakul, dressed in Jim Thompson, attended The White Lotus premiere in Bangkok. (© Max)

“To me, Bangkok has everything — and it’s always moving. It never sleeps. It’s been here a long time, and it’ll keep going,” he says. “Of course, Bangkok has its light and dark sides — moments of calm, and bursts of chaos. But I’m a Bangkokian, and I’ve never thought about leaving. It might not be the best city in the world, but it’s where I feel most at ease. I’m not a big star, but I know I’m enough. I’ve lived here for nearly 50 years, and I’ve never wanted to be anywhere else. I never feel homesick — because I know I’ll always come back. This is my backyard. It’s my home.”

And perhaps that’s why he feels so grounded here — not chasing international stardom. He’s rooted in the City of Angels. “Bangkok isn’t unkind unless you go looking for trouble. Stay grounded, and the city looks after you,” he adds.

Here, the born-and-bred Bangkok native shares his favourite spots to experience the city’s ever-evolving soul. From hidden sois and moody jazz bars to spa escapes and scenic night rides, these are the places that remind him why he never wants to leave.


Hetrakul plays Pornchai, a soft-spoken spa manager whose role may be modest, but whose quiet warmth touches not only our beloved Belinda’s (Natasha Rothwell) heart — but ours too. (© Fabio Lovino/HBO)
Hetrakul plays Pornchai, a soft-spoken spa manager whose role may be modest, but whose quiet warmth touches not only our beloved Belinda’s (Natasha Rothwell) heart — but ours too. (© Fabio Lovino/HBO)

The Best Neighbourhood: Sukhumvit

“My family home is in Soi Sukhumvit 21, but I live in a condo on Sukhumvit 18 because it’s easier to maintain. It’s a great area — convenient. I can just walk out and grab a bite at EmSphere or EmQuartier. It’s got a mix of peace and bustle, and everything I need is right there.”

Sukhumvit is Bangkok at full speed — glitzy, gritty, and always buzzing. While the road itself stretches over 5,000 kilometres, visitors flock to the vibrant span between Nana and Phra Khanong. From the world’s first Thai restaurant to earn three MICHELIN stars, Sorn, to the humble-yet-forever-popular Bib Gourmand spot Rung Rueang Pork Noodle, and the MICHELIN Key-awarded 137 Pillars Suites Bangkok Sukhumvit has it all. Think top restaurants, cool bars, trendy shops and endless energy.

- Sorn: 56 Soi Sukhumvit 26, Klongton Khlong Toei, Bangkok.
- Rung Rueang Pork Noodle: 10/3 Soi Sukhumvit 26, Khlong Tan, Khlong Toei, Bangkok.
- 137 Pillars Suites Bangkok: 59/1 Soi Sukhumvit 39, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok.

The Em District shopping area in Phrom Phong area on Sukhumvit Road. (© Shutterstock)
The Em District shopping area in Phrom Phong area on Sukhumvit Road. (© Shutterstock)

The Best Spa Treatment: Thai Massage with Thai Balm

“Lately, I’ve been into Thai balm massages — they smell great, relax the muscles and boost circulation. Traditional Thai can be painful, and oil massages are too slippery, so this suits me best. I get one weekly to unwind after tough workouts. Recovery is as important as training — it’s all about rest and nutrition.”

There are plenty of spas along the Sukhumvit BTS line, offering a wide range of prices — or you can stop by Nitra Serenity Centre at 137 Pillars Suites Bangkok, a 2024 MICHELIN Key hotel. More than just a spa, it’s a holistic wellness centre built around the pillars of exercise, diet, mindfulness, expression, restoration, evolution and society. Don’t miss ‘Sleep by Design Therapy’ — a deeply restorative massage that blends holistic techniques with cutting-edge technology to improve sleep quality.

59/1 Soi Sukhumvit 39, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok.


The Nitra Serenity Centre is located at 137 Pillars Suites Bangkok, a 2024 MICHELIN Key hotel. (© 137 Pillars Suites Bangkok)
The Nitra Serenity Centre is located at 137 Pillars Suites Bangkok, a 2024 MICHELIN Key hotel. (© 137 Pillars Suites Bangkok)

The Best Cultural Walk: Talat Noi

“I once took my wife to Talat Noi because she’d never been — it’s full of charm. Think old Thai-Chinese workshops, vintage metal shops and a way of life rooted in craft. Keep walking and you’ll pass through Sampheng into Yaowarat. For a relaxed stroll, go around 2 or 3 p.m. when the sun softens. A late afternoon Chao Phraya River cruise followed by an early evening walk through Talat Noi is perfect. Grab a bite, explore a little, and you’ll end up in Yaowarat.”

Talat Noi is the oldest Chinese community in Bangkok, nestled on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. It has recently found itself in the spotlight thanks to hip cafés and progressive art spaces. Wander its maze-like alleys to discover historic gems like the 200-year-old So Heng Tai mansion, the sacred Hakka Rong Kuek Shrine, and the Assumption Cathedral Bangkok. Talat Noi grew with the expansion of Sampeng’s trade during the early Rattanakosin period. Today, it offers a fascinating blend of Thai-Chinese culture, reflected in its historic homes, local way of life, lively eateries, and street art-lined alleyways.

Soi Vanich 2 and Soi Charoen Krung 22, Bangkok.

Located on the edge of Bangkok's Chinatown, Talat Noi has been home to various ethnic Chinese communities since shortly after the city’s founding. (© Shutterstock)
Located on the edge of Bangkok's Chinatown, Talat Noi has been home to various ethnic Chinese communities since shortly after the city’s founding. (© Shutterstock)

A Unique Bangkok Experience: Soi Cowboy

“Soi Cowboy used to be just a quiet cut-through when I was a kid — like a real cowboy street from an old Western. The bars looked like something out of a vintage film, and it wasn’t crowded like today’s Phrom Phong or Thaniya, which feel like mini Japans. Phat Phong was known for go-go bars, but Soi Cowboy felt different — like American expats had set up their own saloons. I remember walking through to Soi 23 to buy comics in my school uniform — it was eye-opening. Now, it’s packed. The bars haven’t changed much, the street’s still the same size, but it’s bursting with people. It’s wild.”

Soi Cowboy is one of Bangkok’s major red-light districts and has become something of a spectacle for curious tourists over the years. Home to around 40 bars, the area also has its share of great restaurants, including The Local, a MICHELIN-listed Thai restaurant in Soi 23. Set in a charming colonial-style house, it serves regional dishes based on secret family recipes in a setting rich with old-world charm.

- Soi Cowboy: Between Sukhumvit Soi 23 and Asok Road, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok.
- The Local: 32 Soi Sukhumvit 23, Sukhumvit Road, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok.


Soi Cowboy is near Sukhumvit Road, between Asok Montri Road (Soi Sukhumvit 21) and Soi Sukhumvit 23, within walking distance from the BTS Skytrain's Asok Station and the Bangkok MRT's Sukhumvit Station. (© Shutterstock)
Soi Cowboy is near Sukhumvit Road, between Asok Montri Road (Soi Sukhumvit 21) and Soi Sukhumvit 23, within walking distance from the BTS Skytrain's Asok Station and the Bangkok MRT's Sukhumvit Station. (© Shutterstock)

The Best Historical Hidden Gem: Jim Thompson House Museum

“Jim Thompson House is a beautifully preserved museum tucked away at the end of a quiet lane off Rama I Road, right across from MBK mall. It’s a stunning old house overlooking the canal, and everything inside has been meticulously maintained. It’s now over a hundred years old. And when you’re done, you can simply walk out and head straight to [Siam] Paragon for a spot of shopping.”

Tucked down a leafy lane just across from MBK, the Jim Thompson House is a hidden gem in the heart of Bangkok. Once home to the legendary “Thai Silk King,” this beautifully preserved teakwood house-turned-museum showcases Thompson’s impressive collection of Asian art. Built in 1959, it’s a peaceful slice of old Bangkok — with shopping just a short stroll away. For an ultra-local touch, book a table at TAAN, a MICHELIN-listed Thai restaurant that takes a contemporary approach while staying true to authentic Thai character. The chef creates a seasonally changing tasting menu made entirely with premium-quality Thai ingredients.

- Jim Thompson House Museum: 6 Kasem San 2 Alley, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan, Bangkok.
- MBK: 444 Phaya Thai Road, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan, Bangkok.
- TAAN: 25th Floor, Siam@Siam Design Hotel, 865 Rama I Road, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan, Bangkok.

The Bangkok home and Asian art collection of the late James H.W. Thompson, also known as the “Thai Silk King”. (© Jim Thompson House Museum)
The Bangkok home and Asian art collection of the late James H.W. Thompson, also known as the “Thai Silk King”. (© Jim Thompson House Museum)

The Best Bars: Thong Lo and Studio Lam

“There’s so much happening in Thong Lo — hidden bars, omakase-style cocktail bars where you chat with the bartender about how you’re feeling: tired, happy, whatever. Places like that are everywhere, especially around Soi 11. However, Thong Lo has a more local vibe, while the younger crowd tends to go to Ekkamai. I quite like Studio Lam, though — they play different sets depending on the DJ, so it’s always something new to listen to.”

Thong Lo (Soi Sukhumvit 55) is one of Bangkok’s swankiest neighbourhoods, popular with wealthy clubbers and the city’s younger crowd. Just nearby, on Sukhumvit 51, you’ll find Studio Lam — a low-key gem known for solid cocktails, including yadong (a traditional Thai herbal liquor). Expect everything from Afro house and Tibetan grooves to Thai molam funk — a haven for music lovers who prefer sounds beyond the mainstream.

- Thong Lo: Soi Sukhumvit 55, Sukhumvit Road, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok.
- Studio Lam: 3/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok.


Tucked in Soi Sukhumvit 51, Studio Lam offers a vintage Thai setting to discover genre-defying music outside the mainstream. (© Studio Lam/ Facebook)
Tucked in Soi Sukhumvit 51, Studio Lam offers a vintage Thai setting to discover genre-defying music outside the mainstream. (© Studio Lam/ Facebook)

The Best Bike Ride: the Grand Palace

Bangkok has its own charm — you can ride anywhere and still feel it. Part of that charm? All the potholes! For beautiful roads, you can’t beat the stretch along the Grand Palace. It’s cool at night, the air is fresh, and I enjoy sightseeing on two wheels after dark. There might not be much to stop for — no shops open, no snacks to grab — so it’s really about the ride itself. If you’re hungry, head to Rama IV Road — it’s packed with places to eat.”

Bangkok is known as a modern metropolis, but its roots run deep along the historic Rattanakosin route — where the city began over 240 years ago. From the Grand Palace to Ratchadamnoen Avenue, this area is rich in heritage, culture and street food. It’s especially magical at night or during the festive season, when lights and decorations transform the old city into a glowing contrast of old and new — the true charm of Bangkok.

Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok.

Enjoy a stunning evening view of the Grand Palace. (© Shutterstock)
Enjoy a stunning evening view of the Grand Palace. (© Shutterstock)

The Best Legacy Hotel: Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok

The Mandarin Oriental has done an incredible job of preserving its legacy. The hotel isn’t a towering structure — it has character. Most importantly, I got married there. It’s a place that lives in the memories of older generations and still holds that place for me today. You just hop on a boat and you’re shopping, or you can simply stay and enjoy. The staff are never awkward — the hospitality is exceptional. Thai people naturally have a strong service mindset. Everyone greets you with a friendly ‘sawasdee kha’ or ‘krab’. Everything just feels effortless — being a host comes naturally.”

Among Thailand's first three-MICHELIN Key hotels, the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, has remained at the top of its game for 150 years. Its original Victorian-era wing hosted literary legends like Joseph Conrad, Graham Greene and W. Somerset Maugham, followed by Hollywood icons such as Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor — and most recently, The White Lotus creator Mike White, who found inspiration here. “I’m home,” he declared, calling the hotel “the most exciting commute to the gym.” It remains one of Bangkok’s most storied hotels — and among the most historic in the Mandarin Oriental group. It’s also the only Bangkok hotel chosen for filming.

48 Oriental Avenue, Bang Rak, Bangkok.


The Verandah at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, features the hand-painted mural that inspired White during his first visit in January 2023. (© Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok)
The Verandah at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, features the hand-painted mural that inspired White during his first visit in January 2023. (© Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok)

The Best Live Music: The Rock Pub, The Bamboo Bar, Saxophone Pub & Restaurant and Brown Sugar

“Personally, I love live music — even rock and metal. I used to go to The Rock Pub, now in Sanam Pao. Some of the musicians are in their 60s or 70s; I’ve been listening to them since school. Now they recognise me as an actor, and I see them as senior artists — there’s mutual respect. I’ve never played music, but I’ve always appreciated the art. For jazz, Saxophone is a classic. It’s been around for over 30 years — not flashy, but the musicians are fantastic, and everyone’s there for the music. Brown Sugar and The Bamboo Bar are great too.”

Bangkok’s nightlife might steal the spotlight, but its live music scene has something for everyone. The Rock Pub has hosted decades of rock gigs in a cosy, eclectic setting. For jazz lovers, The Bamboo Bar at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok is Thailand’s oldest jazz venue, dating back to 1953 — and yes, it’s where Rick (Walton Goggins) and Frank’s (Sam Rockwell) eyebrow-raising exchange over chamomile tea took place. Saxophone Pub & Restaurant, near Victory Monument, remains a beloved institution for both veteran and rising artists, while Brown Sugar — founded in 1985 — continues to serve up stellar jazz and blues, nurturing Thailand’s next generation of talent.

- The Rock Pub: 1011/3-4 Phahonyothin Rd, Phaya Thai, Bangkok.
- Saxophone Pub & Restaurant: 3, 8 Ratchawithi 11 Alley, Thanon Phaya Thai, Ratchathewi, Bangkok.
- Brown Sugar: 18 Soi Nana, Pom Prap, Pom Prap Sattru Phai, Bangkok.
- The Bamboo Bar: 48 Oriental Ave, Khwaeng Bang Rak, Bang Rak, Bangkok.

Catch a live rock band at The Rock Pub or smooth jazz at The Bamboo Bar, Thailand's first jazz bar at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok—where Rick and Frank once exchanged a showstopping monologue over chamomile tea. (© The Rock Pub/Facebook, Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok)
Catch a live rock band at The Rock Pub or smooth jazz at The Bamboo Bar, Thailand's first jazz bar at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok—where Rick and Frank once exchanged a showstopping monologue over chamomile tea. (© The Rock Pub/Facebook, Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok)

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