Joining with Three MICHELIN Stars in the MICHELIN Guide Dubai 2025 selection, FZN by Björn Frantzén is the acclaimed Swedish chef’s debut in the Middle East. Our famously anonymous MICHELIN Guide Inspectors visited the restaurant and here’s how their experience went.
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The bear on the wall
The restaurant is one of several situated within the vast and iconic Atlantis the Palm hotel located at the top of the aptly named Palm Jumeirah island. Look out for the bright red wall and reception desk on the lower level of the Eastern wing, where you’ll find two restaurants operated by Swedish chef Björn Frantzén: the less formal, MICHELIN-selected Studio Frantzén and Three-MICHELIN-Star FZN by Björn Frantzén.As I walk into the main entrance of the Atlantis the Palm hotel, the first thought that comes to mind is: wow! The lobby is striking with a massive Dale Chiluhy glass-blown sculpture at its center. Not too sure which way to go, I asked the concierge for directions to FZN by Björn Frantzén and smiling, he responds: “Take a left and walk until you see the bear on the wall.” Doing just that, I see the main entrance of Studio Frantzén with a discrete door to the left, that’s the one I want. With a ring of the doorbell at the side, the door opens, I am welcomed in and accompanied to a dedicated lift that takes you two floors up to the sitting room.
Come to dine at home
Set over three levels, the experience commences and concludes in a cozy Scandi-inspired (slightly kitsch) sitting room, which opens out onto a smaller terrace on the upper level. They have created a long hallway enroute to this sitting room with numerous bottles and jars of preserved ingredients on display – a real nod to the Scandinavian heritage of the founder. The ethos here is very much “you are coming to dine in a home” rather than a restaurant, and they have certainly achieved this. When you consider the location, inside a vast hotel, that is all forgotten whilst you are dining. There is an element of Scandinavian hospitality for sure.Aperitifs and snacks are served first here, followed by a dinner enjoyed on the floor below (the middle level). They give you the choice to sit at either a 13-seater, wooden-topped counter or an individual table, but I opted for the best seat in the house: at the counter to get a ringside seat of the chefs in action. The visually impressive kitchen is the focus of the room, complete with a wood-fired grill.
There is also a rather well-stocked wine ‘cellar’ (its located on the mid-level, not in a basement), where the highly polished bottles are proudly displayed in glass-fronted cabinets. I, like many other diners, was invited to view this room on the way from the sitting room to the restaurant.
A symphony of flavors and sheer sophistication
The tasting menu consists of nine courses, plus snacks and petit fours. Expect some of the world’s finest ingredients, such as shellfish from Norway, Turbot from Brittany and Tuna from Japan. They’ve even developed their own caviar in house (less salinity, more umami) through a collaboration with Frantzén and caviar house, N25. Guests are ‘introduced’ to the array of ingredients before leaving the sitting room for the restaurant.In the lounge area, I was guided to a counter where ingredients used in the dishes are displayed as I enjoy one of the snacks. Each item is carefully explained: what it is and where it comes from.
The dishes boast subtle Asian influences and condiments with classic French technique and, of course, Scandinavian inspiration too, all in such a perfect balance and harmony. Not every dish is elaborate in its construction; however, the sheer precision in technique and sophistication shines through.
One of the chef’s signatures and a true highlight of the evening is the plump and umami-rich Norwegian langoustine with sushi rice at the base. The rice is gently deep fried, just enough to create a thin, transparent and crisp shell before serving it with a comforting perfumed ginger emulsion. Another favorite is the immaculately executed chawanamushi with creamy custard, topped with smoked beef broth creating an exquisite texture and taste sensation.
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When diversity delivers
Diners are introduced to all the chefs before taking a seat and the servers all introduce themselves by name too. Everyone works together in perfect harmony, each taking turns to serve the dishes and wines. Each plate has some element added at the table or counter.This restaurant has been several years in the making – one of the time-consuming tasks they faced was assembling the right team. Chefs have all been recruited from Scandinavia and Central Europe; it was even mentioned many have relocated to Dubai just so they can be involved in this exciting project. The Danish Head Chef Torsten Vildgaard heads the team after an illustrious career in Copenhagen.
Exclusive tips
- This is set to become a very popular restaurant, and reservations will become harder to secure – plan well ahead as they seat a up to 27 guests only.
- Opt for one of the wine pairings or there is a juice/non-alcoholic pairing too.
- A great spot for couples as well. They take a booking for 4 people, either on a table or at the angle on the counter, so you can converse easily.
- The overall experience lasts around 4 hours, which is lengthy by Dubai’s standards. However, you would not wish it to be quicker – in fact, you will not want to leave.
Illustration image: Atlantis Dubai/FZN by Björn Frantzén
