Ever wondered what it’s like to dine the world’s first-ever Three-MICHELIN-Star Indian restaurant? Here’s your firsthand look into a MICHELIN Guide Inspector’s dining experience in Dubai’s Trèsind Studio, from the welcome to insider tips.
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A warm welcome
This Three-MICHELIN-Star Indian restaurant is located at the top of Palm Jumeirah’s trunk, in the delightful hanging gardens of the St. Regis Dubai, The Palm where several restaurants are nestled in a landscape of gracious arches and desert trees.The warm air briefly grazes my skin as I get out of the car right in front of the hotel’s main entrance. Greeted by the valet, I make my way to the right of the entrance and take the lift to the St. Regis Gardens. Exiting the elevator, I made my way to the restaurant. Once there, you are welcomed in the warmest fashion and introduced to the work of an artist who paints in the hallway. This Ugandan gentleman takes care of the garden in the morning, where they grow aromatics, edible flowers and even bananas for one of the final courses, and paints in the evening art works that can be purchased or offered as a gift if you come for a special occasion.
I was invited to arrive a bit earlier to relax and sip one of the many signature cocktails of their own Papadom Botanic Bar, where classics are revamped with Indian flavours whether it be spices, fruits or techniques like the delicious Maharajah Margarita or the Nilgiri Negroni that we chose. You understand at once the meaning of ‘Trèsind’ which is a constructed word translating into “very Indian.”
Simple, yet mesmerizing
The building is an elegant contemporary white curved pavilion. The vestibule is a vast clear space with Venetian blinds on the walls, wooden furniture and exotic plants that takes you straight to India; whilst the Studio, the dining room itself, is more contemporary, with abstract framed works and design comfortable furniture. Six tables are positioned in such a way that every diner has a perfect view on the pass that is like a stage behind which the cooking happens. The lights are dimmed during dinner and soft music played in the background, which adds to the relaxing atmosphere.Everything is thought to offer the most exclusive and immersive experience. Hence, a somehow theatrical presentation of every dish, with beautiful custom-made crockery, visual and graphic effects (figurines, dry-ice cloud, music, etc.) make diners plunge into each of their storytelling. These effects are quite oneiric; they can be mesmerizing and emotional at times.
A tour of India
Immensely proud of the incredible richness of the Indian civilization, the chef celebrates it with a menu called ‘Rising India’ that showcases through four different steps of the menu, four different regions, the Thar Desert, the Deccan Plateau, the Coastal Plains, and the Northern plains and foothills of the Himalayas. Each of them sharing distinctive characteristics in terms of produce, foreign influences, and climatic constraints. The menu encompasses, with a rare intelligence, the sheer diversity of the subcontinent in a very accessible way.The uniqueness of Chef Himanshu Saini’s approach is to be found in a strong independence of mind: the deep understanding of his roots and of his limitless creativity results in dishes that are so very Indian and absolutely true to its core. But the dishes are modern, freed from their original exact aspects, of an ultimate refinement and highly sophisticated but can talk to any gourmet irrespectively of his own culture, which makes it a world-class cuisine.
The 18-course experience was so perfectly tailored that the evening flew by and you end up not even noticing that 3 hours have past, and without being too full either. Before each section of the menu is served, a map of India is brought over to the table showing the regions the dishes take their inspiration from, which further enhanced the theatrics of the experience. Crafted with a supreme technique, products of the highest quality deliver dishes that are so deliciously enjoyable. Each ingredient is respected in its natural flavor and the spices, indissociable from the Indian cuisine, are measured with the utmost acuteness and subtlety.
The amuse bouches are masterpieces: an opera overture foreshadowing, with supreme precision and growing interest of the emotions and the flavors that would follow. In general, every sauce, especially the broths, had exceptional depth and complex persistence. The crab flesh cooked in ghee with spices on a cinnamon bark looked simple, but imparted such deep flavors that it left us in awe. The lobster with the spicy and pungent Alleppey curry could epitomize the cooking of the chef; the purity of the produce elevated by defined bold flavors that balanced between each other in supreme elegance. The most emotional dish was the ‘Sadya,’ which is a creative and modern tribute to the farming communities of Kerala who celebrate the harvest in a vegetarian feast. Desserts were not left aside with four courses that were exemplary in terms of balance and inventiveness.
A harmonious ensemble
The team outnumbered the guests, and this is a sign that a lot of efforts are put to deliver a chiseled memorable experience. The brigade, mostly coming from the North of India was working in an absolute calm. They knew exactly what they had to do, communicating with just a look or a whispered word. The chef, who comes to the tables, is equally self-possessed with a charming, humble personality.
The floor team also shows an incredible precision as they move and behave in an elegant clockwork ballet. They deliver explanations on the cooking philosophy or the roots of the dishes with clarity, passion, and a friendly tone. Resumed by the Indian phrase “Atithi Devo Bhava” (‘Guest is God’), this has been, by far, the best service I could see this year.
Trèsind Studio offers a holistic experience, unique and extremely enjoyable.
Exclusive tips
- Arrive on time as the meal is precisely sequenced
- Go for one of the drink pairings as they really elevate the tasting experience, especially given the complexity of the dishes
- Arrive early to enjoy a creation of the Papadom Botanic Bar that will put you in the best dispositions
Illustration Image: Shresth Maloo/Trèsind Studio
