There are people in Britain who have been waiting years for a restaurant like OMA to come along. Greek food is beloved by so many people, such is its delightful combination of heartening and refreshing dishes – plus its innate ability to transport you back to that sunny Mediterranean holiday you went on last year. And yet, the UK has never before had a MICHELIN-Star Greek restaurant. In under a year, OMA has opened, drawn in waves of discerning diners and now won its first Star. It’s no mean feat for Chef Jorge Paredes and Owner David Carter, who, as a MICHELIN Guide Inspector explains, have quickly created one of London’s most appealing destinations.
Arrival
Tucked away on the edge of bustling Borough Market, OMA is a haven for the hungry shopper as they seek rest and refreshment. At ground level, you’ll find its newly Bib-Gourmand-awarded sister restaurant AGORA, but it’s the MICHELIN-Star delights of the upper level that our Inspectors have reported back on.“There’s something about walking up stairs to a restaurant that heightens the anticipation, as you slowly become aware of the noise emanating from a room full of contented diners. The sign outside of OMA is quite enigmatic and discreet, so finding those stairs isn’t that easy – but even that adds an extra layer of excitement, as you feel you’re in on a little secret. The first thing we noticed on entry was the huge tuna head sticking out of the ice on the raw bar – a sight to whet the appetite if ever there was one. Our table overlooked an open kitchen, where the chefs went about their work in a confident and choreographed way. The flames from the grill lit up the space and the enticing aromas wafted over.”
OMA is situated on the edge of Borough Market and sits above its sister restaurant, AGORA. © Christopher Horwood
The Team
OMA is one of those restaurants where you don’t notice just how well run it is. Our Inspectors visited on a busy day but found that nothing could faze the impressive service team.“The room is bustling and busy, particularly during the earlier part of the evening, but the young and charming service team were impressively unflappable and always made time to answer questions or explain dishes. What’s more, the pace of the dishes’ arrival was exemplary. There was none of that ‘dishes arrive when they are ready’ business that plights so many restaurants and results in everything arriving at once. Here, it was more about the customer and there was no need for us to rush one dish before others got cold.”
The Drinks
A great meal out can be made even more joyous by the drinks that you pair it with, as our Inspectors found during their visit to OMA.“While we mulled over the hugely appealing menu, I ordered a pomegranate and chamomile negroni, which has now become one of my favourite versions of the classic cocktail. After that, we chose a 2022 Lihnos Vidiano, Dourakis, from Crete. This ancient Cretan variety has had a small-scale renaissance and this example from a small grower didn't disappoint. It was served at the perfect temperature, delivering a degree of richness and depth, and married well with the wide range of dishes.”
Make sure to try as many of the sharing plates as possible when visiting OMA. © Gilles Draps
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The Cooking
With OMA’s MICHELIN Star providing a landmark moment for Greek cuisine in the UK, it will have set high expectations for any future visitor. But, if our Inspector’s comments are anything to go by, you’re unlikely to be disappointed.“The cooking at OMA is delicious in a big, bold way that paints in broad brushstrokes of flavour without sacrificing depth or balance. Chef Jorge Paredes and his team are focussed on their flavours – and they are thrilling. His cooking is not strictly Greek in its makeup – happily incorporating influences from beyond with joyous results – but it is Greek in spirit, and utterly brilliant.”
The Dishes Tasted
Coming a few months after a pair of fellow Inspectors, our visitors this time decided to come for dinner, one being a British Inspector and one from California who was spending the week in London. They were keen to try a few dishes that the previous Inspectors didn’t order, and while they enjoyed many terrific dishes – such as whole squid cooked over charcoal and a chocolate cremoso for dessert – some particularly stood out.
'Charred Lamb Belly with Hummus, Shallot and Mint Salata' at OMA. © Gilles Draps
Breads & Dips
“We started with the wonderful range of breads and dips. The acma verde resembled a bagel in shape and had parsley and garlic running through it, while the laffa flatbread bore scorch marks from the charcoal grill. Both proved wonderful accompaniments to the tahini and crispy chickpea spread and the smoky baba ghanoush.”Raw Toro with Soy and Sesame
“That tuna we walked past on entry is delivered whole every Tuesday, so we ordered some toro with the classic dressing of soy and sesame. An example of where the menu happily strays beyond Greece, this was a suitably refreshing dish.”Charred Lamb Belly with Hummus, Shallot and Mint Salata
“Our sharing plates included this charred lamb belly, where the meat was simply delicious. Cooked very slowly and then skewered and grilled, it was lightly caramelised and offered great depth of flavour, with the salad and pomegranate lending freshness and colour.”Spanakopita Gratin, Malawach
“The spanakopita gratin was a dish to warm the very soul on a cold winter’s night. The creamy spinach was topped with galomizithra, along with some grated parmesan, and then baked. We dived in and used the wonderfully crisp and flaky malawach bread to capture all those strands of cheese.”
'Oxtail Giouvetsi, Bone Marrow, Beef Fat Pangrattato' at OMA. © Gilles Draps
Oxtail Giouvetsi, Bone Marrow, Beef Fat Pangrattato
“Probably the highlight of our visit, this was a rich, thrilling dish that will remain long in the memory. The braised meat was succulent, tender and contrasted nicely with the buttery orzo. Garnished with some chives and pangrattato that had been cooked in beef fat, it was the last savoury dish of the evening and a fitting finale.”Conclusion
“OMA is a restaurant you can’t fail to be charmed by, from the enthusiastic young service team to the rewarding and heartwarming dishes. The cooking is full of vitality, freshness and flavour. The ingredients are first-rate and the dishes are balanced and confidently executed but, above all else, they are delicious – and that’s always the most important thing. And it’s why OMA has triumphantly become the UK’s first-ever Greek MICHELIN-Star restaurant.”NEW City Guides:
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Hero & Thumbnail Images: © OMA/Gilles Draps
