A big and bright red wood-burning oven is not merely a visual centerpiece at 21 Greenpoint, it is also the soul of their thoroughly pleasing American fare. This is where those fresh breads and pizze are baked just as meats and a tantalizing array of root vegetables are roasted. The menu changes daily and the kitchen is notably accommodating, so vegan/vegetarian variations are easily made. Don't miss the Sunday night prix-fixe, offering six excellent courses like a frittata, peppery pork shoulder soup with foraged mushrooms, and more for a mere $21. Nowhere else can you find this level of delicious American cooking at such a price. This may be a relative newcomer, but it has a familiar feel with plank floors, colorful mosaics, and pleasantly disheveled walls.