The spotlight shines here on the seriously talented Chef Nobuyuki Shikanai, who commands the rear room’s attention as he performs his magic before the few coveted seats along his omakase counter. Beyond this, the space has a row of tables where you might observe a group indulging in a tuna rib that appears large enough to have come from a cow: first sliced raw, then cooked to enjoy this incredible fish both ways.
Unlike the monastic atmosphere often found elsewhere, the mood here is celebratory and upbeat. The service team is swift and friendly even as they work in the shadow of their master.
Kanoyama’s omakase is really the only way to experience Chef Shikanai's artistry. It's also profoundly personal, as he displays each morsel with cupped hands, to be taken with your fingers. Pieces are precisely crafted yet delicate and very beautiful in that traditional Edomae style. Overall, the meal is a progression from light and firm fish to vivid and buttery salmon and toro, with exciting stops along the way, including cherry trout hakozushi (box-pressed) or jackfish with grains of Icelandic sea salt and a drizzle of lemon. Finish with an extraordinary block of cake-like tamago.