Amid the leafy, brownstone-lined Mount Morris Park Historic District, Barawine is an inviting dining room overseen by Fabrice Warin (formerly the sommelier at Orsay). This eye-catching space entices Lenox Avenue passersby to step in, sip and sup, either perched at the bar area’s communal table or seated in the quieter, more intimate back dining room. Whitewashed walls attractively double as wine storage throughout.

The crowd-pleasing menu defies classification and embraces many influences. Quinoa salad with tofu and seaweed will please the disciplined, while mac and cheese loaded with béchamel, Gruyère and diced ham calls out to more indulgent palates. Pan-seared branzino with aromatic herbs and a drizzle of balsamic is a treat for all.