A big and bright red wood-burning oven is not merely a visual centerpiece at 21 Greenpoint, it is also the soul of their thoroughly pleasing American fare. Similarly, the space oozes with that appealingly familiar feel, featuring plank floors, mosaics and disheveled walls. This is where those breads and pizze are baked, just as meats and root vegetables are roasted. It's hard to achieve this level of delicious, well-sourced cooking in hipster Williamsburg, but the menu excels in this regard. It also changes daily and is notably accommodating to both vegans and vegetarians. When offered, don’t miss their multi-course Sunday night prix-fixe, which may include a frittata, peppery pork shoulder soup with foraged mushrooms and much, much more.