Behind this notable counter is a chef whose experience runs deep. Japanese-born sushi maestro—Shunji Nakao—previously flashed his knife at Nobu Matsuhisa’s eponymous 1980's spot. He is also known for his work at Asanebo, which he opened along with his brother in the 90s.
While the menu does offer à la carte, it is the omakase that is by far the better option. The itamae will ask how much you’d like to eat, and so begins this memorable meal. The slicing and crafting of each morsel is absolutely precise, as seen in red snapper with salt and lemon; halibut with yuzu zest; or even that massive bite of rich monkfish liver. While the house-made texturally exquisite tomato "tofu" features four tomatoes and takes four days to prepare, it flaunts impeccable balance in acid and flavor—not unlike those nikiri-brushed pieces, like lean tuna or bluefin toro. In an unusual turn, meals here are sealed by such stellar soups as shiso with special seaweed.
Although this revered refuge is housed in a curious-looking building, just off Highway 10, guests arrive expecting serious sushi. Of course, that’s exactly what they get, though the atmosphere remains low-key with just a small bar and handful of tables.