Taketoshi Azumi is indeed the real deal—he's worked for two decades at top spots on both coasts and comes from a family of sushi connoisseurs. In fact, Shin is named for the Tokyo restaurant run by his late father (spot the sign hanging behind the counter).
Despite its pedigree, the vibe is laid-back. Tables fill with as many diners ordering lunch combos as the omakase. The friendly chef's approach to shari is singular and it makes a delicate base for some of the more unusual nigiri around, like a tiny bundle of Japanese chives tied with crispy nori and topped with bonito. Then look forward to the very rare and lightly torched cherry trout, or sakura masu, which is a marvel thanks to its smoky outer layer giving way to melting richness.