In this restaurant near Aix-en-Provence, head chef Nicolas Bottero (previously in Grenoble) serves up exciting, flavoursome and fragrant cuisine. As a child, he used to spend time in the region visiting his grandmother, and has retained an affection for the colours of the South of France and an attachment to the land. You can tell as much from the green asparagus from Mallemort, sautéed à la minute, with creamy morels and a vin jaune emulsion, or the blood oranges on a baba au rhum infused with star anise and a refreshing sorbet. Local farmers are among his suppliers, and a small kitchen garden provides the aromatic herbs. The terrace to the rear of the building overlooks a small garden. Discreet, humble and enthusiastic, Nicolas Bottero gets our vote.