Exposed stone walls, visible electric cables and streamed music in the long, narrow dining space, and, at work in the open kitchen, Korean chef Jay Wook Hur (encountered at Boutary and Petit Boutary). Going solo in the kitchen, he can be seen cooking up modern, creative French cuisine with a few Asian touches (on this particular evening, they include tempura, sesame, kimchi), as his mystery menu unfolds: a surprising and beautifully fresh starter such as sea bass, kimchi and avocado, accompanied by two raspberries and a quenelle of smoked herring roe; or the oh-so-tender matured Simmental sirloin, fennel, beetroot and its bold jus.