Arbane

After over 10 years at Le Parc des Crayères, Philippe Mille, "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" (2011) and winner of Bocuse de Bronze (2009), has opened his own restaurant in this town house dating back to 1874. Cutting a fine figure, it has a contemporary interior done out in discreet tones (a nod to the vineyards of Champagne) and an open kitchen, in which the chef from Sarthe cooks up a culinary vision rooted in the Champagne terroir. He uses vine shoots, draws inspiration from the seven grape varieties (including Arbane), and incorporates fine seafood ingredients (monkfish, turbot, lobster etc). The champagne list is obviously of interest, and the plush upstairs lounge is embellished by a sculpture from Atelier Simon-Marq, Reims-based master glassmakers since 1640.