Saving room for dessert isn't necessary at Nicōsi because this daring tasting menu celebrates the final course exclusively from start to finish. Nestled inside a dark, moody space hung with velvet curtains off Pullman Market, this theatrical experience is a true surprise, as there is a strict no photo or phones policy for all guests at the L-shaped counter. The multicourse meal tends to follow four themes—acidic, umami, bitter and sweet—and the team rarely repeats dishes from one season to the next. The creations are edgy and imaginative. Think mille-feuille of Fat Tailed Tomme cheese crackers with spring onion mousse, powdered sugar and caviar with gold leaf or even beef short rib crowned with cotton candy made right there in the middle of the room. All throughout, chefs engage diners, freely explaining their process and their inspiration.