In the quiet city of Pearland, native Texan Ronnie Killen barbecues like few others in the Lone Star state. Everyone waits patiently before doors open at 11 a.m., when the crowd moves fast through, what used to be, the city’s first school cafeteria. Sourcing from Snake River Farms, Killen offers a first-class beef rib smoked just out back that is a silken delight and sings of smoke, salt, fat, and pepper. You could cut it with a spoon. And regardless of what your doctor says, order those melting cubes of pork belly burnt ends tossed in a pepper jelly sauce. Brussels sprouts and collards sopping in potlikker offer some reprieve from the meat. First timers won’t have room for dessert, but veterans never lose sight of the crème brûlée bread pudding.