Chef Yuchun Cheung brightens Murray Hill with authentic regional dishes from China, with an emphasis on Shanghai. This cooking is serious and high quality, rooted in tradition and comfort, and it's easy to make a deeply satisfying meal focusing on appetizers and vegetable dishes alone. Signatures include crispy eel, a pile of sweet, glossy crunch that is impossible to stop eating, and stir-fried cauliflower with dry chili, which carries a bright, numbing heat. The pork and crab soup dumplings are neatly constructed, self-contained rather than explosive, and mapo tofu stands out for its custardy, silken texture and spice. The attractive interior is festooned with wood furniture, dark walls, cozy lighting and a small bar up front. Younger crowds lend the space a lively appeal.