To usher in the next generation in kappo culture, Tokuo goes all in on à la carte items. Blanquillo, a staple of Kyoto cuisine, is served year-round: at times flame-grilled, at others deep-fried or as sakamushi (seasoned with sake and salt, then steamed). Duck meat dumplings, a heritage from the chef’s apprenticeship days, are lovingly prepared in homage to his culinary mentor. Rice enveloped in grated yam and bean curd skin has been devised as a treat that goes down easy in the summer months.