This pretty village with a medieval church and 18C obelisk was founded in the 13C by the Counts of Champagne; in the 19C it was restored by architect Viollet-le-Duc. It is the ideal place for experienced and talented chef Nicolas Tissier (who has previously worked with Jean-François Piège and Christian Le Squer) to take over the family business. He gives free rein to his inspiration with surprise set menus packed with premium ingredients: langoustine, monkfish, sweetbreads, chanterelles, which he makes the most of in his balanced and harmonious dishes. The cheese platter, with its 50 or so types, deserves a special mention.