Olde Marckt, which has been run by the Stoverink family since 1998, has been given a stylish makeover. Albert, the father, ensures seamless service, personally guiding diners through the tempting wine list, which features French, German and Austrian labels (be sure to request a visit to the wine cellar after dessert!). Son Bram has returned to Aalten to take charge of the kitchen, reverently preserving the classics of the house, such as dishes featuring eel, asparagus, and game shot by his father, Albert.

But this chef is more versatile than that. His sophisticated cuisine with its subtle cosmopolitan inflections immediately gives away his background, which includes time at De Lindenhof in Giethoorn. For instance, he glazes langoustines of impressive size and quality with tomato, which yields wonderful fruity-sweet nuances. An XO sauce made from scallops and prawns, elevated with goat butter, adds further intensity. This chef avoids gimmickry and brings finesse with individuality to every dish. The menu is extensive, with simpler options at lunchtime, but the culinary depth is never compromised.