Chef Nozomi Mori's sushi counter stands apart from the pack, both for its excellent edomae-style sushi and for its hospitable staff in the front and back of house. Plan in advance to visit this special spot, where there are just eight seats at the wood counter. While the fish is flown in several times a week from Japan, local, seasonal produce is worked into nearly every dish. Even the smallest details matter here, as evidenced by the Japanese ice imported for use in their five-course tea pairing. Begin with a number of dishes, like chawanmushi with gingko nuts, before enjoying the well-executed nigiri. Mochi accompanied by matcha prepared by the chef herself is an elegant final act.