Asakusa Hirayama hangs out its shop curtain near Kappabashi; the calligraphy is done by the chef’s grandmother, a calligraphy teacher, expressing her joy in her grandson becoming an independent restaurateur. The counter seating harks back to his background as a kappo cook and his cheerful demeanour makes guests feel welcome. Soba is preceded by standards like jellied broth of conger eel or stew of duck breast. Tempura items are deep-fried one by one, as good as you’d find in a tempura specialty shop. The 100% buckwheat soba noodles, prepared with homemade flour made with unpolished buckwheat, are richly flavoursome.