A black and white tiled floor and an open fire set the scene in this plush bourgeois 19C home, but the comfort is entirely 21C, as is the splendid terrace to the rear. The chef has opted for a playful lineup of international influences, without forgetting his classical heritage. He might pair a tataki of bonito with a sweet-sour vinaigrette, or medium rare veal with black truffles, a tarragon mayonnaise and a bordelaise sauce. A choice of four-, five- and six-course menus, all of which overflow with intensity and flavour.