Chef Alex Raij knows her tapas, helping to kickstart the craze in Manhattan. More than a decade ago, she jumped boroughs to Brooklyn and opened La Vara, which she co-owns with husband, Eder Montero. Billing itself as “cocina casera” or “home cooking,” this kitchen elevates humble cuisine to impressive levels. Product quality is excellent, and the playful spirit behind these dishes is the definition of creative cooking. Menu highlights include huevos rellenos, judías a la plancha, or grilled romano beans and butter beans in a bright Romesco sauce, and cochinillo, or a slow-roasted suckling pig leg with chimichurri.