He may start by searing a rib-eye steak to give it a crisp crust, before smoking it over the barbecue and then pairing it with a powerful sauce of crushed pepper corns and celeriac soaked in cognac. Similarly, he highlights the numerous facets of celeriac by way of different preparations: cooked in a salt crust, in a crème, fried, but also like a risotto in a creamy jus. The chef shines the spotlight on the work of his suppliers, courtesy of playful, yet polished recipes. A quick glance at the wine wall (of mainly French vintages) behind a glazed partition may well prove irresistible and the front-of-house team is always close at hand with pairing suggestions.