After many years at Le Parc des Crayères, ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’ Philippe Mille has opened his own restaurant in this elegant abode dating back to 1874. In a contemporary interior done out in natural shades and strewn with references to the vineyards of Champagne, the chef from Sarthe pursues a culinary vision that is rooted in the Champagne terroir in his open kitchen. He cooks over vine branches, draws inspiration from the seven grape varieties (including Arbane), adding the odd fine seafood ingredient (monkfish, turbot, lobster etc). The champagne list is naturally of interest, and the plush lounge upstairs is adorned with a sculpture by a famous Reims-based master glassmaker.