Bahia in Balzan, MICHELIN Star
Honey, EVO oil and milk
Bahia’s chef likes to push boundaries. His set menus let Malta’s rich history speak for itself, but at the same time he looks to the future applying his own creativity. On this occasion, he took me back to Roman times with this combination of honey, EVO oil and milk, proving that less really can be more.
When the Romans settled in Malta, they brought a lot of different foodstuffs with them. This is how they started making extra virgin olive oil with Maltese olive trees, and they also boosted the production of honey. Both of these ingredients took centre stage in this dish. Starting with the EVO oil mousse, soft in texture and light in flavour, with hints of oil aromas. The drizzle of honey was similarly subtle. In the centre of the mousse there was a wonderfully unctuous fior di latte ice cream, with a few more drops of olive oil on top and just enough coarse salt to provide that extra kick. It absolutely goes to show that you can create a remarkably compelling taste experience with just three elements.
Legligin in Valletta
Aljotta
At the rustic-style Legligin, they know the importance of home cooking and have great respect for tradition. They realise all too well that some dishes take time and need a chance to rest for all their flavours to express themselves fully. This recipe for aljotta, traditional Maltese fish soup, is a great example of their cooking style.
The broth consisted of a blend of simmered tomatoes, lots of carrots, garlic and onion, and coriander and mint. This made for a basis that was a little on the runny side and was brimming with flavour. The fish of the day was sea bream, and it was extremely fresh. Delicious! This was accompanied by a pan of Sicilian mussels cooked Maltese style and with Mediterranean panache. Long live these rich traditions!
Guzé in Valletta
Rabbit
Guzé is a bistro where the tradition of generosity is also held in high regard. Rabbit is a Maltese favourite and takes pride of place on the menu here. During my visit, I was bowled over by this heartwarming dish and the skilful preparation that had gone into it.
This struck me as soon as I tasted the leg, which was roasted to perfection and succulent. The loin was wrapped in pancetta and roasted with a nice juicy stuffing made of duxelles and tender onions. It was also served with a crispy bonbon of the spiced leg meat, as well as a confit of red onion baked in hay, a puree of carrot and some vegetable accompaniments. And then there was the rich rabbit jus that added punch to the dish and tied everything together beautifully. That’s what they mean by genuine Maltese generosity!
Terrone in Birgu, Bib Gourmand
Red prawn, chilli and lime
Super-fresh fish and seafood are the stars of the show at Terrone. The chef has a nose for excellence and knows how to showcase his ingredients with Mediterranean panache. Not overly complicated, but straight-up flavoursome and unbeatable value for money. In short: a Bib Gourmand restaurant par excellence.
The best memory of my dinner at Terrone revolved around prawns sourced from local waters and marinated raw. The freshness of the seafood was remarkable, with that subtle sweetness and firm texture, and yet the prawns melted wonderfully on the tongue. The chef’s deft touch was evident in the way the prawns were seasoned with just the right amount of acidity from the lime, as well as finely chopped garlic. Now, that’s how you showcase premium produce in a dish and really let its flavours shine through.
59 Republic in Valletta
Duck confit glazed in teriyaki and orange, couscous with feta and spicy peaches
59 Republic is such a great place; I always reserve a table on the terrace overlooking the Grandmaster’s Palace. The options on the menu are also enticing, with French classics, Mediterranean finesse and Asian touches. During my last visit, the chef blew me away with this duck dish.
The duck leg, which was of outstanding quality, was slow-cooked until the meat was really butter-soft. The skin was nice and crispy, and the teriyaki and orange were not overbearing. The couscous with salty feta and spiced peaches had a wonderfully grainy texture and was bursting with flavour, with a bit of bite. The peppers and small courgettes were lightly grilled. And then there were the jacket potatoes that had been incorporated into a vegetable ragout, giving these exuberant flavours some extra depth. Delicious!
Head Photo Bahia ©Tonio Lombardi
