The wooden counter is owner-chef Yoshichika Masuda’s stage. Like a skilled conjurer revealing his tricks, Masuda demonstrates the techniques and traditions of Japanese cuisine he honed during his days at a ryotei. The hassun is especially attention-grabbing. The sculptured beauty formed by ingredients from land and sea is a study in the coexistence of light and shade. The attentive service and the sight of his training his apprentice shines a light on the future of Japanese cuisine.