This restaurant, bang in the historic heart with a wrought iron and glass front door, is where chef Nicolas rolls out a modern line-up, with the odd Asian twist picked up during his forays to Thailand. Examples include Tom Kha Kung (spicy soup) of shrimp and coconut milk or a Wellington-style Kushikatsu of Camargue bull. Each Asian-sounding, fresh, aromatic dish comes with lashings of reassuring explanations! The chef works with local organic producers and breeders whenever possible and the concise wine list demonstrates a distinct fondness for natural tipples.