The light-filled interior of this Mexican powerhouse sitting on a quiet corner is a busy amalgam of rustic artifacts, wolf taxidermy and the Virgin Mother in all her glory with flowers and votives at her feet. And those huge jars of jamaica, horchata and the agua fresca del dia are just as tasty and refreshing as they are decorative.

If they have the tlayuda, order it. Its crunchy paper-thin base is smothered in a veritable fiesta of refried black beans, chicharrón, lettuce, queso Oaxaca, crema and much, much more. Other equally terrific specials have included chivo, a rich goat stew highlighting an intense habanero-spiked consommé or tender lamb barbacoa tacos. Cold accompanying salsas are so divine one could skip the chips and just eat them—with a spoon.