Julie and Sébastien Bonnet have settled in a pretty country village a few kilometres from Crest, their previous haunt. In an edifice dear to Sébastien’s heart (it was formerly the Demeure de Grane, a local institution where he carried out his apprenticeship), he enthusiastically demonstrates that both his talents and his seasonal fare, equally poised between surf and turf produce, are as enticing as ever. His spot-on, sophisticated, occasionally playful dishes are served in two cosily contemporary dining rooms. The splendid wine list, with Rhône wines in a prominent position, adds the final flourish to this gourmet masterpiece.