Features 1 minute 06 December 2017

Menu At The Gala: The Fine Balancing Act Behind Chef Noah Sandoval's Bold Dish

He talks about the inspiration and techniques behind the final entree at the 2018 MICHELIN guide Hong Kong Macau Gala Dinner.

Chef Sandoval first experienced the taste of perfect balance when he had dinner at Schwa in Chicago. Chef Carlson’s techniques and thought processes helped change Sandoval’s perspective on successfully marrying strong flavors. At the 2018 MICHELIN guide Hong Kong Macau Gala Dinner, the chef of two-Michelin starred Oriole in Chicago presented a Cured and Roasted Racan Pigeon Breast with Charred Cippiolini Onions, Smoked Black Pepper and Dried Blueberries
Why did you choose to make this particular dish for the gala?
It’s a very complex course. It hits lots of notes and I find the sweet/salty/acidic balance to be a perfect fit for a final savory course.

What’s the concept behind it?
To balance a dish that revolves around gamey meat and not leave the diner feeling overwhelmed. I try and take something that could be very heavy and lighten it up a bit.

How does this dish express your culinary philosophy?
I try and keep things simple and clear. This dish doesn’t apply many modern techniques but does have a modern flavor.

Where did you source the ingredients, and are any hard to get?
I’ll sourced them from a variety of purveyors. Rare Tea Cellar here in Chicago is a great place to get hard-to-find ingredients. I used my forager for some things and D’Artagnan for the squab and foie gras.

What was your inspiration for the dish?

The practice of balancing sweet and salty is something I love doing. Some of the best dishes I’ve ever eaten were based on this idea.

Is there a story behind it?
I remember doing a squab breast with liver mousse years ago. I just wanted to refine and update that idea to match what we are doing at Oriole.

What would you say makes this dish so special to you?
I love it because it’s very comforting but also exciting. It’s hearty but light in an interesting way.

What do you hope diners will experience or especially appreciate about it?
I hope that everyone gets the idea behind the dish. I’m trying to hit as many notes as possible to bring out every nuance in the squab.

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