Chuan Tian Xia

You’ll almost always find a line stretching out the door of this Sichuan superstar, which has rocked Sunset Park with its sharp renderings of Chengdu classics. The two-story space is light on amenities, with rustic wooden tables and short, backless stools, but the earpiece-wearing staff is as adept and meticulous as the food itself—and happy to dispense menu guidance to novices.While many associate Sichuan fare with buckets of numbing chili oil, these chefs tend to go light on the spice, letting complex flavors shine in dishes like whole fish slathered with sweet peppers or slivered pork in a vinegary garlic sauce. If the burn is still unbearable, a pitcher of fresh watermelon juice and platter of flaky wok-tossed pineapple fried rice will set you right.