Dining at Ryan Ratino's daring offshoot of sister restaurant Bresca, which sits just above, is an intimate, immersive experience, replete with surprises. That tone is set as soon as you walk through its wooden doors to arrive at an upbeat dining room, revealing a gleaming white kitchen and chef's counter. Akin to stumbling into a gem off the beaten path, this space is abuzz with sedulous activity and the highly technical cooking is exemplary indeed.
The staff glide about seamlessly, perhaps to the beat of hip hop, delivering dishes that are creative, bold, and beautiful. The meal is awe-inspiring from start to finish, as in a rye tart with crème fraîche and zucchini, or bluefin tuna deliciously mingled with maitake mushrooms and black truffles. The heart of this menu however lies in its carefully handled top-shelf ingredients. Think of a sliver of melting Spanish turbot set in caviar-almond sauce, followed by dry-aged pork on a bed of soft leeks. Rohan duck may be familiar, but soars to new heights, thanks to the decadent sauce Royale that accompanies it.
Diners can count on this regal repast never letting up. A treasure box of mignardise is a sweet sendoff and will have you swooning for more.