Travel 2 minutes 21 February 2024

Mory Sacko, a Samurai in the Kitchen

The MICHELIN-Starred chef dishes on his favorite food markets and gourmet spots in Paris.

Paris by The MICHELIN Guide

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Last year, Mory Sacko became the third French chef to appear on the cover of Time, after Michel Guérard (in 1976) and Alain Ducasse (in 2001), as part of the magazine’s 2023 "Next Generation Leaders" feature. In the photo, the (then) 31-year-old MICHELIN-Starred chef juggles oranges, a visual metaphor for his multi-cultural cooking style. Sacko called the recognition “the kind of thing that only happens once in a lifetime (if at all).” Beyond personal significance, it was a watershed moment for French cuisine, moving ever further from monolithic Gallic tradition.

Born in Paris to Malian parents, Sacko cut his teeth in some of the city’s finest kitchens, including Le Meurice alongside chef Alain Ducasse. He made a name for himself on France’s Top Chef series and proved his staying power in the world’s most cutthroat restaurant scene with the opening of MoSuke in 2020. The portmanteau captures Sacko’s culinary essence, combining African, Japanese, and French elements: “Mo,” for the chef’s name, and “Suke,” a nod to Yasuke, a storied African samurai. This signature blend carries over to the design as well.

“I wanted to evoke Japanese influences in the blinds, the shape of the wooden tabletops, the slat detailing on the walls, and the table settings, ceramics, and knives. The incisions on the edges of the shelves are reminiscent of traditional African scarification, and the white trunk represents the palaver tree in the center of the village in West African countries,” Sacko tells the MICHELIN Guide.

What’s more, the decor and materials are all sourced in France.

Earning its first MICHELIN Star in 2021, MoSuke transformed a quiet corner of the 14th arrondissement into a destination. Sacko has since become a fashion world darling, collaborating with brands like Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren, and GOAT. Most recently, he forayed into fast-casual cuisine with the opening of his MoSugo restaurants, which count three locations including one inside Galeries Lafayette’s flagship Boulevard Haussmann store. There, you’ll find Sacko’s distinctive take on fried chicken sandwiches, with unique touches like miso mayonnaise and crisp housemade pickles — call it modern French comfort food at its finest.

The interior of MoSuke reflects a mix of influences
The interior of MoSuke reflects a mix of influences

At just 32, Mory Sacko is already a culinary celebrity and a Time magazine cover star, yet he continues to refine his approach. “I’m shifting toward a more personal, freer style of cooking. I went to Japan for the first time this year and brought back new ingredients I’m now incorporating into my dishes.” Far from being a chef in name only, Sacko stays deeply connected to his craft. “Evolution is key. I’m in the kitchen for every service—that’s a priority for me.”

The Paris-born chef knows good food, from MICHELIN Stars to food court cuisine, just as he knows his city. Here, he opens up his black book of Paris food shops and gourmet addresses for the MICHELIN Guide.

Oshizushi with Arctic char, cucumber, dill, beurre blanc with vin jaune, at MoSuke
Oshizushi with Arctic char, cucumber, dill, beurre blanc with vin jaune, at MoSuke

Is there a bakery near your restaurants that you swear by, where you can grab something special or stock up on essentials?

La Petite Alsacienne is a nice local bakery not far from the restaurant. It supplies bread to both of my restaurants. It sells the famous pretzels, which I love, and a fine selection of Alsace specialties, like Linzer torte and kouglof.

45 rue Raymond Losserand, 75014 Paris


Paris is a paradise for foodies, especially when it comes to specialty ingredients. Do you have a go-to spice shop?

At Nomie Épices, I get a special blend made with chili, sesame, citrus peel, and sansho peppercorns for MoSuke. The spices are well-sourced and of excellent quality, which means you use less.

34 rue de Torcy, 75018 Paris


Is there a neighborhood café or roastery where you get your coffee for the restaurant?

Café Hexagone is a great neighborhood roastery. I buy their excellent coffee: carefully selected, freshly roasted, and ground for the restaurant.

121 rue du Château, 75014 Paris

At MoSuke, Aubrac beef matured in shea butter, mafé sauce, fonio, tamarind
At MoSuke, Aubrac beef matured in shea butter, mafé sauce, fonio, tamarind

Do you have a favorite spot in the city for sourcing those hard-to-find Japanese staples?

Umami Paris is a very well-stocked Japanese grocery shop where I can find koshihikari, the rice I selected in Japan.

www.umamiparis.com


Is there a spot in Paris where you go for your knives or to keep them in perfect shape?

With shops in the 7th and 12th arrondissements, Japanese Knife Company has an incredible selection of knives made in the time-honored Japanese tradition. They also maintain, stone-sharpen and polish the blades, which I have since learned to do myself.

www.japaneseknifecompany.fr

Hero Image: Chef Mory Sacko at his 14th arrondissement restaurant, MoSuke

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