L'Orangerie

In this charming glass-paned extension in the courtyard of the George V hotel, the menu is the work of chef Alan Taudon, a talented disciple of Christian Le Squer. His cooking, which is unabashedly healthy, with a focus on vegetables, dairy produce and seafood, has voluntarily eschewed meat. The ingredients are superb, the cooking is precise, as is the balance struck between the flavours, and the food is knockout (the potato, Comté cheese and truffle pie is addictive!). As for the sauces, they are remarkably light, subtly combining iodine and vegetable notes (sometimes with smoky, spicy or peppery undertones); they manage to bring an element of surprise to each dish, while maintaining a leitmotif that creates structure. There's never a dull moment, and the elegant, discreet service plays the supporting role perfectly.