It was a great relief – and a cause for celebration – when The Ninth reopened in 2023 after a fire. Jun Tanaka’s place may be on Charlotte Street, with its plethora of dining options, but this feels very much like a neighbourhood spot, with its two floors of closely-set tables creating a lively, busy atmosphere. The menu is immeasurably appealing and comes with more than twist of Mediterranean flavour; dishes are meant for sharing but there’s no pressure. It’s the boldness and the confidence of the cooking that impresses, with dishes that are succulent and delicious.