This might not be the smartest part of town, and there’s no denying that the setting opposite the railway arches is somewhat incongruous, but all is forgotten once you cross the threshold. The interior is surprisingly sleek, with curved banquettes, spotlights illuminating dark wood tables, and striking local artwork hanging on the walls; and you can watch the experienced chef-owner hard at work in the open kitchen while you wait.

The best Irish produce is used to create refreshingly understated, unfussy dishes which are packed with flavour, and the minute you start eating it becomes apparent that the classically based combinations are much more complex than they first appear. The early bird menu is a steal, the wine list has something to suit every purse, and service by the chef’s partner is smooth, relaxed and friendly.