In Paris, and across France, natural wine is no longer a trend—it’s a movement that connects the drinker to the land and the makers. For French wine-maker Clovis Ochin, natural wine can't be confined to a glass. “It’s a quest. It’s a way of living,” he says, perched on a stool at The Butcher of Paris, exuding a raw kind of energy. His conversion to natural wine is the stuff of personal mythology.
In his early twenties, he wandered into a wine shop in the 11th arrondissement (district) of Paris, drawn by the sound of music by Fela Kuti playing inside. When the owner offered him a drink, he replied that he didn’t like wine. "It’s just grape juice," said the owner. That first sip turned into an all-night lesson.
While he learned about both traditional and natural wines, he was inspired by the latter—for its freedom from constraints, lack of filtration and sulfites, and potential for a unique, more "natural" quality. Days later, he returned with €10,000 in a shoebox—so began a career as a natural wine distributor.
Today, Ochin, 43, is best known to international audiences for his appearance in several episodes on Munchies, a food channel by VICE on YouTube, alongside American rapper and host Action Bronson. His résumé spans music, restaurants (current projects include collaborations with La Chope des Artistes and Chop Chop), and now his vineyard in Bonastre, Spain. Yet, he’s not one for labels. “I’m uncontrollable,” he says. “I do what I want every day of my life. This is the way I want to live.”
Ochin can be pragmatic about wine. “The most important thing is not to forget that wine is grape juice. Nothing else,” he says. And in the next breath, he’s unabashedly romantic. “Wine is for the soul. People drink wine and fall in love. People drink wine, look at each other, and feel something.”
Here, he shares some of his favorite places to eat and drink well in Paris.
Paris has so many great caves (wine stores). It might be hard to pick favorites—do you have any?
The best cave in Paris, no doubt, no discussion, is Crus et Découvertes at 7, rue Paul Bert in the 11th district. You can find the most incredible bottles at the fairest prices.What about a spot for sipping wine?
The Butcher of Paris, Early June—I think they do an incredible job. Camille [Machet, the co-owner of Early June,] is my girlfriend. But I'm always harder with the people I love. When I say Early June, it’s because I truly think they’re changing Paris.Do you like cocktails? If so, where do you go for a good cocktail?
I drink very little alcohol—just the vermouth of Massimo [Marchiori of Partida Creus], called Muz. It's vermouth made with a family recipe and no sulfites or chemicals. It’s incredible. I love a cocktail once or twice a year. I’ll have an Americano or a Negroni at Bambino or Fréquence (20, rue Keller, Paris 11). People don’t speak much about Fréquence but it’s amazing.Do you put a lot of thought into glassware for drinking wine at home? If so, are there any stores you like?
My only rule is I’d rather drink out of a bottle than drink out of a plastic cup. But I do like a store near République—Trésorerie.People recognize you for your fashion sense too—it feels both curated and laid-back. Do you have any favorite shops?
I love Brut [a vintage store in the Marais]. Below the store, they have 200 square meters with fashion collections since the 1920s—Maison Margiela, Givenchy, they go to them to rent clothes to inspire the new collections. Also, Our Legacy, which I’m wearing now. It’s a friend of mine from Sweden. They’re opening a shop soon in Paris.Can you share a favorite special-occasion restaurant?
I'd say Septime in the 11th district of Paris.
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Hero image: Ines de la Fressange (© Rodolphe Bricard)
