And that’s not all – the country is also the perfect choice for wine-enthusiasts and food-lovers, offering a whole host of surprising and enjoyable experiences. Today, we’re delighted to recommend two unmissable highlights for anyone looking for a relaxing holiday in beautiful surroundings where the emphasis is on protecting and highlighting areas of natural beauty.
Our first stop is Pag, a fascinating island with a unique landscape of karst rocks silhouetted against the blue sky, a rich cultural heritage and plenty for visitors to see and do.
The island boasts areas of Mediterranean maquis and around a dozen villages where the pace of life is still relaxed and largely self-sufficient. Although at first glance the land here may appear unpromising, local farmers cultivate the soil to produce excellent crops including white grapes used to make Šutica wine.
Pag is also home to a cheese of the same name, known in Croatian as Paški sir (literally, Pag cheese) which is made from local sheep’s milk. The animals graze on the island’s aromatic plants and salt marshes, which give the cheese a unique and distinctive flavour.
The island is also renowned for handicrafts such as lace, with individual pieces often framed and hung on walls as works of art, while those looking for bustling nightlife will find bars and clubs concentrated mainly around the Zrće beaches, which are highly popular with night owls.
Here, if you walk along the street that leads to Stara Novalja, you’ll arrive at a large sign decorated with six white barrels that announces your arrival at the Boškinac boutique hotel. Walk up the hill and you’ll come to this idyllic wine resort, which comprises a hotel, restaurant and winery in one superb complex set amid olives and pine trees. It’s the perfect spot in which to rest and relax, with a tranquil ambience enhanced by scents of sage and savoury and extensive views across Novalja’s fields and vineyards.
The splendid stone building which houses Boškinac is a peaceful oasis that feels as though it has been here forever. Each room has its own story, its own colour scheme and is named after a local plant or other object, which also provides the inspiration for the room’s decor. All the guestrooms and suites have been designed using carefully chosen natural materials and are decorated with hand-made furniture. You can relax outdoors near the swimming pool on a canopy-shaded terrace adorned with well-tended plants or go for a stroll or a bike ride in the beautiful verdant landscapes surrounding the hotel.
An interesting place to visit on the island is the magnificent winery that has always played a major part in the life of the Šuljić and Boškinac families. Although cultivation methods have changed over the years, and the region’s dramatic wars have left their mark, the vineyards provide a symbol of survival and the future, with wine production having continued without interruption over the centuries.
The wine-making tradition has been passed on from the Boškinac grandfather to his grandchildren, who combine his traditional methods with the use of more modern technology. “Living on this rocky soil and continuing to follow in the footsteps of our ancestors has been a constant feature of our family life”, says owner Boris Šuljić, who runs the estate with his wife Mirela. “We’re proud of this. Our new winery was built in 2000 and in the same year we planted a new 5-hectare vineyard. As wine has been part of our food and culture for millennia, we decided to include Hippocrates’ famous quotation on the façade of the wine cellar: ‘Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food’. At Boškinac, we put into practice age-old traditions, reminding our guests that a good wine drunk in moderation, especially a red wine, really is good for the health and the spirit”.
The hotel’s harmonious combination of sophisticated luxury and a desire to pamper guests continues in the restaurant. The Michelin-starred Boškinac restaurant provides a truly exclusive experience for food-lovers with tables laid out on staged terraces immersed in greenery. The cuisine is creative in style, with a focus on sourcing top-quality local ingredients, such as the island’s famous lamb, fresh, sweet scampi and highly scented wild herbs. Dishes are served with professionalism and a smile – a warm welcome and attentive service from the smartly turned-out staff at the Boškinac adds to its appeal.
“My family has always been involved in wine production and farming,” continues Boris Šuljić. “My parents began working in tourism as long ago as 1960, when they ran a small boarding house where my mother was the cook. From a very young age, I was surrounded by the aromas of family cooking and wine, which is how I learned my trade, first as an enthusiast and then as a young entrepreneur. The hotel, winery and restaurant reflect my desire – and that of my wife Mirela – to provide the highest levels of hospitality for our guests, enabling them to truly relax in total tranquillity. For us, quality is always paramount. In 2000, we decided to develop the business even further, planting new vineyards and building both the boutique hotel and the wine cellar. Our culinary philosophy is based on a micro-local, micro-seasonal, sustainable and responsible approach. The island has few resources with no large farms or fields, but we adapt to the seasons and know exactly where to target our gastronomic focus at any time of the year”.
Respect for the land is one of the family’s fundamental visions. “We change our menu depending on market availability,” Šuljić emphasises. “Pag is our micro-local source for all our ingredients. This is both our obligation and our mission. We want to encourage the island’s inhabitants to dedicate themselves completely to the ingredients that surround us, both in terms of what they produce and what they use. Cooking responsibly and sustainably for us also means using every bit of an ingredient, with no food waste. We also support small producers and harvest wild herbs from the local countryside”.
It's not surprising that the island’s “legendary” lamb, mentioned above, takes pride of place. “This is certainly our most important ingredient. Pag island is exposed to sea breezes, so that its grass absorbs the salty scent and flavour which gives our lamb a unique and special quality. Lamb takes centre stage on our menu. We prepare it in many different ways, using all the different cuts and offal from this extraordinary animal. And we plan to continue doing so in the future”.
“Other ingredients that I love include skuta, a type of curd produced during the production of Pag cheese”, Boris Šuljić continues, “and the superb scampi from the Velebit Channel. Skuta has a perfect consistency and flavour when first produced, when it’s still lukewarm, and afterwards, it can be fermented, dried or smoked to make either sweet or savoury dishes. And our scampi is perhaps the best in the world, especially when served raw fresh from the sea. My mouth is watering just thinking about it!”
He has a strong passion for artisanal produce. “We buy our Pag cheese from nearly all the cheesemakers on the island because our mission is to represent this traditional cheese in our cuisine as much as possible. Every year, one of the dishes on our tasting menu is dedicated to Pag cheese. In addition, we buy ricotta, milk, whey and young cheese from the small Vidas dairy in Novalja. We buy lamb from the local butcher’s (Žakan, also in Novalja), scampi from local fisherman Gordan Peranić in Stara Novalja, wild fish from Palčić in Proboj and all our organic vegetables from Drita Dunatov and Dikla near Zara”.
“Every year at Boškinac we produce around 50,000 bottles of wine and these labels are well represented on our wine list, which also includes a further 250 wines from Croatia and elsewhere. The Croatian wine scene is quite small, but thanks to the diversity and excellent quality of our native varieties we are without a doubt one of the world’s most interesting wine-producing regions. We source wines from top-quality Malvasia and Terrano producers, such as Matošević, Kozlović, Coronica, Degrassi, Cuj, Fakin, Ipša, Rado, Poletti, Veralda and many others – I’m a great admirer of my colleagues’ work. Another interesting wine-producing region is Dalmatia, where wineries such as Stina, ST Hills, Senjković, Plenković, Tomić, Duboković, Bire, Zure and Krajančić, which mainly produce native wines such as Plavac Mali, Grk and Pošip, are particularly impressive. As far as regions on the Croatian mainland are concerned, I should definitely mention Plešivica, where they produce sparkling wines and wines aged in amphorae, as well as the excellent Pinot Noirs from Tomac, Korak, Šember and Ivančić. This list could be even longer – we Croatians are extremely proud of being a great wine-producing region”.
“Although I can’t predict what lies ahead for haute cuisine and gastronomic tourism, whether in Croatia or globally, I know that I have a positive and restless business mind that constantly encourages me to explore new paths”, Boris Šuljić concludes. “I have always wanted to improve things in my country, but I’m not a revolutionary – I’m more of a renovator. Tourism is a global movement and a huge industry that is becoming more and more accessible with an even greater focus on quality. There are so many marvellous examples of serious, honest businesses across the globe, and this is a source of great inspiration for us all. However, we can’t avoid the fact that tourism can be very destructive for nature. For us, the opposite should be true – it is only by respecting our land that we can save who we are and create good food and healthy tourism. Through our cuisine, we try to spread an important message about the planet’s resources and the importance of a sustainable approach. My wife Mirela and I are delighted to welcome guests at Boškinac so that we can share our love for fine cuisine, good wine and the beautiful natural landscapes that we are always aiming to protect and preserve”.
After the beautiful island of Pag, our second port of call is the equally delightful wine resort of Meneghetti, which lies well off the beaten track in Bale in Istria. A dirt track leads up to this splendid residence built in white stone and nestled in a natural setting surrounded by vineyards, gardens and olive trees. In this idyllic paradise, you’ll find just a few beautifully kept guestrooms where you can relax to the sound of the cicadas, the scent of the vine leaves and the refreshing gentle breeze that comes off the sea. This is a place where time seems to have stood still.
The estate has solid roots in the region’s history. After the Napoleonic Wars, when the Austro-Hungarian kingdom controlled Istria, firstly by stealth and then subsequently and rapidly by force, a farsighted individual by the name of Meneghetti bought acres of land which he cultivated to produce food to sell to the six thousand soldiers billeted in the area. He then began to build houses and hay barns, plant vineyards and olive groves, raise goats and sheep, and to host Austro-Hungarian officers on his property when off-duty. This was the beginning of the Stancija Meneghetti which became one of the best-known estates on the beautiful Adriatic coast and which continued to grow and develop a solid reputation over the decades. Later abandoned, the estate was gradually taken over by weeds and the surrounding Mediterranean maquis until it was rediscovered in the early 21C by Miroslav Plišo and his wife Romana Kajfež, who fell in love with the place and, after extensive restoration work, brought it back to life.
As well as offering accommodation, the estate produces its own excellent wine and olive oil. Although the “red earth” soil in this region seems at first sight to be harsh and poor, this is far from the case: the soil around the Meneghetti Wine Hotel is rich and full of minerals and iron, which makes it perfect for the cultivation of grapes for red wine. The estate is protected to the south by a small hill which prevents excessive rain and helps to ensure a long and healthy life for its vines as well as strong aromas.
The vines here are cultivated using ecological and sustainable methods that respect nature to the full. They are pruned by hand following the Simonit & Sirch method – a soft and delicate approach which nurtures the plant so that it remains healthy and has a longer life. Together with native vines, the estate also grows varieties from around the world which acquire particular characteristics thanks to the qualities of the local soil. The wines are produced using contemporary technologies which reflect the unique character of Istria while at the same time adding an international dimension thanks to their special character and excellent quality.
Meneghetti’s olive oils are also excellent and are among the award-winning products listed in the prestigious Flos Olei guide – an example of these is the Meneghetti Izbor oil was named the world’s best olive oil in the “intensely fruity aroma” category.
A visit to the Michelin-starred restaurant at Meneghetti, where executive chef Damir Pejčinović is passionate about this region and its ingredients, will make your trip to the region even more special.
“The culinary philosophy that guides us here is simple yet profound – we want to showcase our ingredients without changing them in any way”, explains Pejčinović. “The dishes at Meneghetti are prepared using fruit and vegetables from our own organic kitchen garden, as well as meat, dairy products and fish sourced from small artisanal producers in Istria. We prepare these ingredients in a way that ensures that their intrinsic quality shines through. For us, sustainability is not just an important ethical concept, but also a way of increasing long-term efficiency. By using sustainable methods, such as sourcing our ingredients from local producers, reducing our food waste and using renewable energy, we support our local community while at the same time producing delicious food of the highest quality, creating a virtuous circle on all levels”.
“One of our most popular dishes – and a good example of our approach – is our Meneghetti Vegetable Garden with almonds and olives”, Damir Pejčinović continues. “This dish featuring raw and cooked ingredients is a real celebration of our kitchen garden and all the wonderful produce grown here, and what makes it so special is the fact that it changes with the seasons, using whatever fresh produce is available. It is continually changing, offering a new and exciting experience every time, even for our most loyal and regular guests. Our restaurant is a unique oasis with two vegetable gardens, one on site and the other just a couple of miles away where our passionate and experienced organic fruit and vegetable producer, Igor Božić, works closely with me and the kitchen so that we can create dishes that make full use of all the bounty that Mother Nature has to offer”.
Another signature dish is the Double ravioli with Motovun black truffle and Colonnata lardo, a delicious and complex version of a regional speciality, pasta with truffles. “This dish includes two types of ravioli, one stuffed with rich and intensely flavoured black truffle, the other with the earthy aroma of grated celeriac, endowed with the sweet flavours of Colonnata lardo. Thanks to the different cooking methods used, every mouthful is a harmonious mix of unique textures and flavours.”
Although most of the produce is local, there are also some ingredients from Italy on the menu. “We are very fond of asparagus from Bassano del Grappa”, says the chef. “This variety of asparagus has a soft texture and a delicate sweet and sour flavour that distinguishes it from other varieties, and which goes very well with my cuisine”.
“My other favourite ingredients include artichokes, which are always so tasty and versatile. Whether you roast them whole, sauté the hearts or use them in a sauce, they always add a touch of elegance and style to any dish. I also make good use of Meneghetti olive oils in my cuisine, as they add real depth and complexity to dishes. With their intense, fruity aroma and rich, complex aromatic profile, they are the perfect condiment for salads, first courses, grilled vegetables and much more besides”.
As previously mentioned, local ingredients sourced from small artisanal producers are the foundation of the cuisine here. “One of our producers is Ipša Tartufi, an Istrian company that specialises in fresh and preserved delicacies flavoured with truffles, including oils, spreads and sauces. The company also offers truffle-hunting tours and experiences which allow visitors to locate truffles with dogs trained specifically for the purpose. Another of my suppliers is Latus, a company that makes artisanal cheeses from top-quality local milk. Their products are matured for varying lengths of time, from just a few weeks to several years, in order to obtain different nuances of flavour. They take great care with their livestock, raising their cows in completely natural surroundings. Another excellent contact is Kumparička, a small artisanal cheese-producer situated in rural Kumparići, near to Puola in Istria. They have a small farm and specialise in making excellent goat’s cheese”.
The superb Meneghetti estate grows local grapes as well as international varieties such as Malvasia, Terrano, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes are picked by hand and carefully transformed into wines that reflect the distinctive flavours and aromas of Istria. Meneghetti wines are characterised by their complexity and balance, as well as their potential to age well.
“Two of Meneghetti’s most important wines are Malvazija Istarska, a white wine with a full, rich flavour and a distinctive aroma, and Meneghetti Red, which is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that we age for 18 months in oak barrels”, explain owners Miroslav Plišo and Romana Kajfež. “We are proud that our wines, which have won many prizes and awards, are considered to be among the best in Istria”.
As these two superb wine resorts (and many others) proudly demonstrate, Croatia is the perfect choice for a truly memorable holiday thanks to its excellent cuisine, local wines and idyllic natural landscapes.
Happy travels!
Illustration image: Meneghetti, Bale
