Named after the Basque word for flower, this Roma Norte restaurant is Chef Oswaldo Oliva’s way of evoking memories of his life back in Spain. The multilevel space has handsome wood tables and smooth finishes all over, but perhaps the best seat in the house is right at the chef’s counter, where guests can watch all of the action. This quiet, perpetually clean kitchen prepares only a single, seasonal tasting menu that is loosely based on Mexican cooking but more widely takes culinary inspiration from all over: a buttery lobster brioche roll with ikura emulsion, shrimp tostada with smoked chili aioli, and crudo with strawberry. Not all of the team’s ambitious ideas come together clearly but the effort and style are commendable.