Dining Out 4 minutes 13 November 2024

Culinary Class Wars' Chef Sung Anh and JL Studio Unite for a Four-Hands Collaboration at Mosu Hong Kong

Chef Anh Previews His Collaboration with Chef Lim of JL Studio from Taiwan: Korean and Singaporean Masters Meet for a Fine Dining Four-Hands Collaboration Titled 'Reveal the Asian Culinary Mastery|Mosu Hong Kong x JL Studio'

Just 10 seconds—or maybe 61.
That’s all it takes to witness Korea’s signature, most talked-about chef, Sung Anh’s, influence. Whenever news of his pop-up events or collaborations is announced, reservations sell out in the blink of an eye. This high demand has naturally drawn global attention to his restaurant Mosu Hong Kong, where he serves as owner-chef. Visitors from Korea, local patrons, and international gourmets all flock to experience the restaurant, which is currently at its peak. "With Mosu Seoul closed, I have to give it my best here," says chef Anh.

“A mix of our cultures—Singaporean and Korean—in a way that resonates with the Hong Kong local.”

His upcoming collaboration with prestigious Singaporean chef Jimmy Lim, owner of Taiwan’s MICHELIN three-starred JL Studio specializing in contemporary Singaporean cuisine, is yet another event that sold out swiftly. Titled 'Reveal the Asian Culinary Mastery,' this Korean-Singaporean Four-Hands dining experience will take place in Mosu Hong Kong from Nov. 30 to Dec. 1.

Widely celebrated as an ambassador sharing not only Korean cuisine but also Korean culture with the world, chef Anh is fully aware of the interest and expectations surrounding Mosu and remains committed to staying true to his craft. When asked why he chose to collaborate with JL Studio, he reflects, “It’s not about how long you’ve known each other; it’s about the depth of the impression you make in each meeting. There’s a deep mutual respect between us. it wasn’t forced—it all happened naturally.”

Meeting chef Anh in the café nestled within the lobby of the MICHELIN-selected Hotel Grand Hyatt Seoul, he arrived straight from a prior engagement, navigating a packed schedule that included a Mosu Hong Kong meeting lined up right after our interview. The following day, he mentioned, he’d have a scheduled meeting with chef Lim. Pressed for time, he opted to skip a full meal and asked if it was alright to have a quick bite during the interview, settling on a club sandwich, ABC juice, and a side of French fries. Between bites, he shared his thoughts on the upcoming event with the MICHELIN Guide Korea, expressing his appreciation for Hong Kong and its culture.

Chef Anh explains that to truly understand Mosu Hong Kong, one must first appreciate the city's unique setting: “Hong Kong is a vibrant crossroads, often called Asia’s gateway for its dynamic exchange and trade with the world.” He adds, “I could simply bring Mosu Seoul exactly as it is here, but then it would just be a foreign restaurant. What I genuinely want is to create a true ‘local restaurant’ that embodies not only Seoul but also the culture of Hong Kong. When people in Hong Kong think about where to dine, I want them to see Mosu Hong Kong as a local restaurant—a Korean concept that uses local ingredients. That’s what makes a restaurant truly exceptional.”

Read more: Chef Sung Anh Takes A Leap Of Faith With Mosu Hong Kong

The reason chef Anh chose Hong Kong was simple. He explained with a smile, "There’s no need to overthink it—I just adore Hong Kong."

His approach to crafting a four-hands tasting course is also deeply shaped by Hong Kong’s unique food culture. "Every country has its own culinary preferences, and Hong Kong is no exception," he noted. He used an example from Seoul: “If we include a fish like tilefish in a tasting menu, we might follow it with a different fish, such as fried flounder, using a contrasting cooking method. Tilefish, positioned vertically, has a distinct taste and texture compared to flounder, which lies flat, creating a varied dining experience.”

In Hong Kong, however, even if one fish is fried and the other steamed, serving two fish courses might be seen as redundant. “People would say, ‘This isn’t right,’” he explained, noting that in Cantonese dining, it’s common to order multiple fish dishes, but in a set course, offering two types of fish is considered unusual.

He recalled his initial surprise at this cultural difference, questioning why two well-prepared fish courses shouldn’t be served together. “In Korea, we’re surrounded by three seas, sourcing diverse fish from the West, South, East, and Jeju regions. If we include two types of fish, we might grill one and steam the other, each with a unique sauce.” But in Hong Kong, this approach wouldn’t resonate. “And if that’s just one difference, imagine how many more there are. So, I have to consider these factors carefully when designing the menu.”

At Mosu Hong Kong, chef Sung Anh prioritizes guiding rather than micromanaging his team, explaining, “I discuss details with the team, but they need to make decisions independently, shaping their own culture.” This approach is embodied by head chef Bruno Jeong, a former protégé from chef Anh’s team at Mosu Seoul, who now leads Mosu Hong Kong with a focus on fostering independence and accountability within the restaurant’s culture.

© Mosu Hong Kong
© Mosu Hong Kong

From San Francisco to Seoul, and now Hong Kong, Chef Anh’s journey has been bold and challenging. Reflecting on this, he says, “I don’t do it alone; as the owner chef, I lead, but I’ve had many people who trusted and supported me. That support has helped me push through.”

For upcoming four-hands when the two gastronomic visionaries will collaborate, he would listen closely to chef Lim’s ideas, chef Anh said, aiming to accommodate his direction and celebrate his cultural influence. “Since I’m hosting chef Jimmy (chef Lim) at Mosu, I prioritize his opinions.” chef Anh shared. Adding “I’m the host, and he’s the guest—the guest chef. It’s not about who has more stars or who’s ranked higher; he’s a chef I invited into my space. So, instead of deciding everything myself, I listen to what chef Jimmy wants and will do my best to accommodate his direction.”

Embracing tradition yet unafraid to innovate, these chefs are set to showcase dishes that reflect the essence of local culture. While their intentions are aligned, each chef’s expression remains distinct. It’s in harmonizing these nuances and fine-tuning the differences that the true value of this collaboration shines, ensuring each master’s style stands out without overlap.

“If chef Jimmy suggests a dish like laksa with seafood, I might pair it with something uniquely Korean, like abalone pine nut porridge, to keep each course distinct while ensuring harmony in the flow,” he elaborated.

Through continuous dialogue, their collective efforts will result in a final menu crafted with the guests’ enjoyment in mind. Once the menu is finalized, they’ll revisit it to discuss and make adjustments.

As the meticulous preparations for this two-masters, four-hands event unfolded, chef Anh shared an exciting insider tip: Chow Yun-fat had personally reached out to say he’d be attending. Chef Anh, momentarily allowing his masterful demeanor to soften with unexpected charm, shared, “He recently filmed a new movie and is now planning to dine at Mosu. I’m looking forward to it.”

With the overwhelming demand for his events leaving many fans unable to secure a reservation, chef Anh acknowledged the interest surrounding his work. When asked about future opportunities, he shared, “I collaborate whenever there’s a good fit, but my dishes aren’t crafted for large crowds. My goal is for each person to have a meaningful experience, even if it’s just one guest at a time.”


Hero image: From left, Mosu Hong Kong owner chef Sung Anh, and JL Studio owner chef Jimmy Lim.

Dining Out

Keep Exploring - Stories we think you will enjoy reading

Select check-in date
Rates in HKD for 1 night, 1 guest