Set in the heart of town is this lovely little restaurant with whitewashed walls, exposed timbers, flagged floors and a wood-burning stove to keep things cosy in winter. Its simple look and laid-back atmosphere are in perfect harmony with the honesty and purity of the cooking, as is the friendly, fuss-free service.

To really get in on the action sit in the rear of the two rooms, opposite the open kitchen, where you can watch the chef crafting assured, unfussy dishes which showcase precise techniques and restrained originality. First-rate ingredients are carefully sourced and flavours are clear and defined. The weekday lunch is great value and the weekend tasting menus show the chef’s creativity to the full.

In warmer weather, arrive early for drinks beside the raised beds in the small courtyard.