Hidden away in the depths of the world-famous Gleneagles resort hotel is this intimate restaurant. It may be windowless but the room has an appealing classical elegance, courtesy of dark wood walls, clever lighting and colourful food-themed art. An oil painting of the late Andrew Fairlie takes pride of place on one wall and Head Chef Stephen McLaughlin and his team work to continue Andrew’s philosophy and keep his spirit alive.

Refined cooking has a French heart and a Scottish soul and, while techniques are rooted in the classics, there are also touches of modernity. Superb quality produce guides the menu, with 95% of the vegetables coming from their walled Victorian garden and each dish focusing on one main ingredient which is then skilfully enhanced by its accompaniments. Service is formal but comes with plenty of personality.