Solstice

If there are "writers' writers", then there are chefs' chefs. Meilleur Ouvrier de France, pillar of the Ferrandi chool, promoter of culinary design, restaurateur in Seoul, Éric Trochon is that sort of chef – admired and yet relatively unknown. He has now set up shop in this modern and intimate restaurant alongside a Korean sommelier, who also happens to be his wife. The decor blends designer furniture with raw plastered walls; things are also kept simple on the menu, which offers just two boldly flavoured options, from starter to dessert. The textures and contrasts hit all the right notes, as in the Coco de Paimpol bean broth with pickled fennel and melon, and meadowsweet granita or the (really) crispy and melt-in-the-mouth sweetbread with ricotta and green and yellow courgettes.