What a wonderful neighbourhood pub this is – the kind of place you visit once, then immediately start planning your return. Bright, warm and welcoming, the interior is smart yet still feels like a pub, something which is echoed in the food. The menu is packed with the kind of accessible, pared-back cooking you could happily eat every day. High-quality ingredients shine in generous dishes with a complete lack of pretension or over-adornment – like tender Salt Marsh lamb loin with romero peppers and a pastilla of slow-cooked shoulder meat.